Type: 
Alpine
Pitch: 
# Alpine
(Commitment)
Alpine
(Technical)
Alpine
(Mt Cook)
Ewbank Aid Water Ice Mixed Boulder
(Hueco)
Length Bolts Trad
1003+0000m0N
 From the Beetham Valley the best route is probably to cut across the toe of West Ridge and ascend above the old Malte Brun Hut site, regaining the ridge at a col at 2300m. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. Cross the Cheval and continue up 200m to the summit. Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910. At least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16).
First ascent: 
Max Dorflinger, Otto Von Allmen, Dec 1972.
Quality: 
0
Grade: 
3+
Length: 
0
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
No
Gone: 
No

Comments

Comments

In the new unreleased Mt.Cook guidebook the route description for the full West ridge describes a "staunch 18 pitch." I recently climbed Malte via the full West ridge (gained at 1700m) and did not feel like we ever came a cross a pitch of 18 let alone a staunch one.

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