Skip to main content

Magic Messiah

Grade
21
Length
220m
5
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Peter Dickson, Jo Kippax, Alex Palman, 1991
Located on
Topo ref
MM

A varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 25m
  • 5

Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge.


  • P3
  • 14
  • 20m
  • 5
  • Trad

Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab.


  • P4
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 2
  • Trad

Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way.


  • P5
  • 2
  • 50m
  • Trad

Scramble up the edge of the loose scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar. Be aware of knocking loose rock onto your partner and your climbing ropes. Perhaps consider short-roping this pitch or take your time to scramble very slowly and carefully up the scree/talus.


  • P6
  • 17
  • 45m
  • Trad

Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.


  • P7
  • 14
  • 30m
  • Trad

Climb easily in an amazing position to a natural eyrie with a good view. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil, plus bolts for the rappel descent.


Comments
UUID
 
5836b86e-295b-4618-9fbf-1cd4d17fdf89