Natural pro requiredA varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly.
- P1
- 14
- 25m
- 5
Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge.
- P2
- 19
- 25m
- 3
- Trad
Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge.
- P3
- 14
- 20m
- 5
- Trad
Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab.
- P4
- 21
- 25m
- 2
- Trad
Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way.
- P5
- 2
- 50m
- Trad
Scramble up the edge of the loose scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar. Be aware of knocking loose rock onto your partner and your climbing ropes. Perhaps consider short-roping this pitch or take your time to scramble very slowly and carefully up the scree/talus.
- P6
- 17
- 45m
- Trad
Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.
- P7
- 14
- 30m
- Trad
Climb easily in an amazing position to a natural eyrie with a good view. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil, plus bolts for the rappel descent.
One of the bolts on the anchor beneath pitch 6 (grade 17) has blown due to a block being pulled out above, leading to a factor 2 fall. Please be aware that the anchor at the top of pitch 5 only has one bolt and is "sketchy as", if you will.
In reply to One of the bolts on the by Liam Pyott
Liam can you email me unwin@alpineclub.org.nz about this
The 4th pitch looks like an awesome thin finger crack, but has become very vegetated and hard to climb. Tried to do some cleaning by hand, but a tool of some sort would be needed to do properly. Pitch has 2 bolts now.