Magic Messiah

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
A varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly.
Reference: 
MM
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11425m5No
 

Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge.

21925m3Yes
 

Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge.

31420m5Yes
 

Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab.

42125m2Yes
 

Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way.

5250mYes
 

Scamble up the edge of the scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar.

61745mYes
 

Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.

71430mYes
 

Climb easily in an amazing position.
Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil.

Grade: 
14,19,14,21,2,17,14
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
220m
Bolts: 
15
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Peter Dickson, Jo Kippax, Alex Palman, 1991
UUID: 
5836b86e-295b-4618-9fbf-1cd4d17fdf89

Comments

The 4th pitch looks like an awesome thin finger crack, but has become very vegetated and hard to climb. Tried to do some cleaning by hand, but a tool of some sort would be needed to do properly. Pitch has 2 bolts now.

One of the bolts on the anchor beneath pitch 6 (grade 17) has blown due to a block being pulled out above, leading to a factor 2 fall. Please be aware that the anchor at the top of pitch 5 only has one bolt and is "sketchy as", if you will.

Liam can you email me unwin@alpineclub.org.nz about this