2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Aoraki Tai Poutini
  5. Sebastopol Bluffs
  6. Central Crags
  7. Central Gully Right

Central Gully Right

(10 routes)

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

Left hand side of the scree to the R of Twin cracks follow track up past Crucifix wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
JC Jagged Crack 17
0
 wire representing trad
Access either by climbing bolted line that starts R of Tremor or continue up from Revenge of the Podge. Hairline to Forty is climbed from the same place. Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging.
Murray Judge Feb 2013
HF Hairline to Forty 23
0
 wire representing trad
A fine crack needing thin wires and small cams.
Rob Connolly Feb 2013
RP Revenge of the Podge 21 37m
0
 8bolts wire representing trad
There is a small ledge to the R of the Central Gully at the top of the scree. It can be accessed from either the left end or front R. Magic Messiah and Revenge of the Podge start from this ledge. Start to the left of MM, beware of loose rock at the top on the easy section.
Brent Shears,1999
MM Magic Messiah 14,19,14,21,2,17,14 220m
2.01
 15bolts wire representing trad 3
A varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11425m5No
 

Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge.
21925m3Yes
 

Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge.
31420m5Yes
 

Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab.
42125m2Yes
 

Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way.
5250mYes
 

Scamble up the edge of the scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar.
61745mYes
 

Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.
71430mYes
 

Climb easily in an amazing position.
Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil.
Peter Dickson, Jo Kippax, Alex Palman, 1991
SS A Slovakian Nightmare 24 25m
1.02
 8bolts
From the top of the first pitch of MM head right and up pink slab. Long moves on good holds lead to a thin and technical crux. Finish left to the second belay of MM.
Cory Green 2008
Crafty Devil 16
0
 wire representing trad
Further up the wall, the hand crack left of the third pitch of Magic Messiah, small to large cams.
Murray Judge Feb 2013
PD Poison Dwarf 20 12m
0
 4bolts
Start at the right-hand side of the Gully (from the ground) and climb a narrow, brushed wall.
Kylie Wakelin, 1999
Ss Seamstress 18,19 20m
0
 6bolts wire representing trad
From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11810m3Yes
 

From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
21910m3No
 

Technical climbing on sound rock.
Kylie Waklin
AB Angels Buttress 19
0
 3bolts wire representing trad
Starts off the ledge at the top of Seamstress, face climbing on small gear.
Rob Connolly Feb 2013
BM Bonsai Master 18 29m
0
 5bolts wire representing trad
Steep slab to a crack at half height 5 bolts then small to med cams and wires. Avoid the loose flake on the right near the start
Murray and Bronwyn Judge March 13
UUID: 
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