Central Gully Right

Type

Sector

Part of

Central Crags

Aspect

North

Access

Left hand side of the scree to the R of Twin cracks follow track up past Crucifix wall.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
JC	JCJagged Crack, 17	17			0
Access either by climbing bolted line that starts R of Tremor or continue up from Revenge of the Podge. Hairline to Forty is climbed from the same place. Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging. P1 17 Trad Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging.
HF	HFHairline to Forty, 23	23			0
P1 23 Trad A fine crack needing thin wires and small cams.
RP	RPRevenge of the Podge, 21	21	37m	8	0
P1 21 37m 8 Trad There is a small ledge to the R of the Central Gully at the top of the scree. It can be accessed from either the left end or from the front right. Magic Messiah and Revenge of the Podge both start from this ledge. Start to the left of MM, beware of loose rock at the top on the easy section.
MM	MMMagic Messiah, 21	21	220m	5	2.01
A varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly. P1 14 25m 5 Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge. P2 19 25m 3 Trad Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge. P3 14 20m 5 Trad Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab. P4 21 25m 2 Trad Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way. P5 2 50m Trad Scramble up the edge of the loose scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar. Be aware of knocking loose rock onto your partner and your climbing ropes. Perhaps consider short-roping this pitch or take your time to scramble very slowly and carefully up the scree/talus. P6 17 45m Trad Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side. P7 14 30m Trad Climb easily in an amazing position to a natural eyrie with a good view. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil, plus bolts for the rappel descent.
SS	SSA Slovakian Nightmare, 24	24	25m	8	1.02
P1 24 25m 8 From the top of the first pitch of MM head right and up pink slab. Long moves on good holds lead to a thin and technical crux. Finish left to the second belay of MM.
	Crafty Devil, 16	16			0
P1 16 Trad Further up the wall, the hand crack left of the third pitch of Magic Messiah, small to large cams.
PD	PDPoison Dwarf, 20	20	12m	4	0
P1 20 12m 4 Start at the right-hand side of the Gully (from the ground) and climb a narrow, brushed wall.
Ss	SsSeamstress, 19	19	20m	3	0
P1 18 10m 3 Trad From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right. P2 19 10m 3 Technical climbing on sound rock.
AB	ABAngels Buttress, 19	19		3	0
P1 19 3 Trad Starts off the ledge at the top of Seamstress, face climbing on small gear.
BM	BMBonsai Master, 18	18	29m	5	0
P1 18 29m 5 Trad Steep slab to a crack at half height 5 bolts then small to med cams and wires. Avoid the loose flake on the right near the start

Comments

UUID

3f6c9f26-2eb9-437c-a609-d018beff1350