Highly recommended. Now that the Yak Route has become frequently difficult to access, the Bonney Rib is the best way to sample the delights of Malte Brun’s famous cheval – a spectacularly exposed and narrow section of solid red rock. Many parties start this climb from a good bivvy/camp spot on the col between the Bonney and Malte Brun Glaciers, below the prominent gendarmes at the base of the Bonney Rib.
From the Bonney névé, use snowfields to access the rib above the gendarmes, then climb good rock (crux) to join the West Ridge. Turn left and follow the ridge, which narrows until the cheval is reached. After negotiating the cheval, the ridge broadens and becomes slightly easier, but the rock quality deteriorates. The summit is another 200m higher and can take a surprisingly long time from the cheval.
This is now the standard descent route and most parties require a few abseils to return down the rib. On your way up make a note of where to turn off the ridge. Please take old tat from previous climbs with you on your way down – it’s unsightly and unsafe.
First ascent unknown.
- P1
- 11
- Alpine (Commitment) V
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
