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East Face

Type
Part of
Image
Caption

East face of Malte Brun, August 2016

Rights credit
Colin Monteath/Hedgehog House
Aspect
East
Approach

To access Malte Brun’s east face, climb Frind Peak, and then cross the Baker névé.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6.18 6.18Central Buttress, VI,4 VI,4 0m
0

Near the centre of the east face is a broad gully with a prominent rock rib on the left, a snow and rock rib on the right, and a steep rocky headwall. From the Baker névé, head up the gully on moderately steep snow/ice (up to 55 degrees), then below the headwall move right onto the mixed snow and rock arête and up to the summit ridge. A route best done fairly quickly due to risk from ice avalanches and rockfall.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) VI
  • Alpine (Technical) 4

6.19 6.19Original Route, V,3+ V,3+ 0m
0

From the Baker névé, ascend the moderately steep snow slope to the left of the East Rib into an ice couloir that leads onto the upper East Rib.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

6.20 6.20East Rib, V,3+ V,3+ 0m
1.02

A classic route. From the Baker névé, gain the rib via snow slopes on the left and ascend the mixed snow and rock steps. The rib eases into a snow arête and joins the top of the north-east ridge.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
ca12d45b-7ebf-4f36-98b4-9e993cf83325