Anyone who ventures more than a few hours up the Cook River is bound to have a memorable adventure.
This is a place of gigantic boulders, lush vegetation, occasional glimpses of unknown peaks, and the scene of the historic rescue of Ruth Adams in 1948. As well as the wonderful transalpine journey over La Perouse to the Hooker valley, the upper névé hosts excellent climbs on the big peaks.
Access to the lower Balfour valley is covered here. Infrequently visited, yet surprisingly accessible (in West Coast terms), the lower Balfour is a magnificent place with a remote feel. Capable transalpine parties will love it.
Charlie Douglas and Arthur Harper reached Twin Streams in May 1894. Harry the Whale, German Harry and Tony the Greek were probably there earlier, from the late 1880s.
State Highway 6 to the La Perouse Glacier
Route 13A, grade II, 1
The route up the Cook valley stays on the true left all the way. Much of the route was marked with permolat (white metallic strips) in the 1970s and again with pink flagging tape in 2010. Many of the markers will be hard to find, but time spent looking for them is well worthwhile.
From the Cook River bridge, follow up the true left bank of the river. Travel on this section is not marked, but is straightforward provided the river is not high. Fifteen minutes past the junction with the Balfour River, enter the bush and follow markers along, up, down, in, and out of the bush.
The route does not follow contour lines. It involves frequent loss and gain of height to avoid rocks, fallen trees, small bluffs, and slips. A small grassy flat at BX15 556 748 can be used for camping.
Opposite McBain Creek, the route climbs to avoid a bluff, and contours for a time before descending to a large, open creek flowing into the Cook River. A small camp site is available near the cabbage trees on the true right of the creek – Cabbage Tree camp (about BX15 550 741).
After Cabbage Tree camp the gorge begins and travel is much more difficult. The route gradually climbs above the river, generally ascending on spurs and contouring through gullies. A number of bivouac rocks exist on this section, but they can be hard to find. The marked route currently ends at a large multi-trunk rata at about BX15 548727, where the mature bush finishes.
From here, trend down and across through scrub for 200m to reach the big rocks of the riverbed at about BX15 549 726. A further 100m brings you to Balfour Corner, opposite the prominent bluff. There is a side stream here with exposed bivvy rocks on each side. There is a good but small campsite up behind the northern rock.
From Balfour Corner, follow the true left riverbank as much as possible all the way to Gulch Stream, taking to the scrub where necessary. River levels will have a big impact on speed along this section. Above Gulch Stream, follow the true-left moraine until it's possible to move onto the glacier itself.
There are grassy flats at BX15 569 712, which provide good camping, and there are reasonable campsites on the true left of the glacier above Gulch Stream. The large snowgrass plateau at BX15 610 700 (1050m) is also a beautiful camping spot. To reach the plateau, ascend a large slip beginning 500m upstream of the Gulch confluence.
SH6 to Cabbage Tree camp: 6 hrs
Cabbage Tree camp to Balfour Corner: 5 hrs
Balfour Corner to Gulch Stream junction: 4–5 hrs
Travel on the La Perouse Glacier
Route 13B, grade II, 2+
The La Perouse Glacier is complicated by lower and upper icetalls, which are always heavily crevassed.
The lower icefall can usually be avoided on the true right (north) side.
The upper icefall can present difficulties, especially later in the summer. Hard against either the true-left or true-right edge usually provide the best routes. See also routes 13F and 13G.
SH6 to the Navigator Tops
Route 13C, grade I, 1
The tarn-studded hills north of Pt 1948 (Trig 6719), to the west of the lower Cook River, are known as the Navigator Tops, which provide excellent views into the Balfour and upper Cook valleys.
Most parties heading here are hunters who usually access the tops via a helicopter to the tarns at BX15 532 756 (great camping here).
For those approaching on foot, the most commonly used route begins in Bullock Creek. From State Highway 6, boulder hop 1 km to the first major forks, then continue up the true-right branch until downstream of a waterfall at BX15 531 777.
Bypass the waterfall using a bush terrace 20m above the creek on the true right.
Above the waterfall is another fork – follow the steep true left branch past the base of a large slip, and then enter the bush on the true-left (west) bank at about BX15 528 775.
Continue up the ridge crest through mostly open bush to the bushline at 1000m, and then through dense scrub to reach open tussock at 1250m. Some old Forest Service permolat markers will be visible in places in the bush and scrub, but the original route is overgrown.
Other nearby ridges with lower scrub lines may offer easier routes, e.g. the spur west of Hermit Creek. From the scrub line, climb easily through tussock, and then sidle at 1330m to reach the tarns at BX15 532 756.
SH6 to tarns at 1330m: 8 hrs
Navigator Tops to Whales Saddle
Route 13D, grade II, 1+
From the tarns at BX15 532 756, climb to the saddle south-east of Pt 1508m and then head south, sidling on mixed tussock and rock slopes, and occasionally following the ridge crest where practicable to the 1600m plateau north of Pt 1948m. The next one kilometre of ridge is moderately steep and blocky, but difficulties on the ridge crest can be avoided by careful route-finding, generally on the east side of the ridge initially, and on both sides above 1840m. From a col at BX15 534 720, the summit of Pt 1948m can be bypassed by sidling on the east face to reach the south ridge at 1850m. From here to Whales Saddle, the route generally follows the crest of the ridge, with difficulties (steep snowgrass slopes and rock steps) usually being turned on the south side. A crossing of Whales Saddle is possible.
Tarns at 1330m to Whales Saddle: 7 hrs
Crossing the lower Balfour Range
Route 13E, grade III, 2+
Only two crossings of the Balfour Range have been recorded, both north to south: one from the head of McBain Creek to cross near Pt 1792m (a scrubby ascent), and one which crossed near Pt 1814m (1.5km west of Storm). Both routes involved some scratchy downclimbing in slabby gullies to reach the La Perouse valley floor, and better routes may exist elsewhere. The routes will be best in early summer, with plenty of snow still in the gullies. Allow a big day for the crossing.
The lower 3km of the La Perouse Glacier is now a partially infilled lake. This and the Cook River are both difficult to cross, so it's best to use the moraine-covered glacier trunk to cross to the south bank.
Access to the La Perouse Glacier from the Hooker Glacier
Route 13F, grade III, 3
The lower La Perouse Glacier can be accessed from Empress Hut via Harper Saddle.
To reach the La Perouse névé, descend 200m from Harper Saddle, keeping right, then ascend 150m snow or loose rock to the horizontal section of the ridge running down from Mt Hicks (the north-west ridge), reaching a small névé.
From this point, to reach the La Perouse Glacier between the upper and lower icefalls, follow down snow slopes on the true right of the lower north-west ridge. Otherwise, to reach the upper La Perouse Névé, cross towards the North Rib of Mt Hicks, descend a short distance beneath a rock buttress, and cross to a flat ridge. Using the right of two obvious notches, descend 150m down a steep rotten rock gully (which usually requires an abseil) and snow slope to reach the main glacier below the north face of Hicks. This is one of the most committing areas in the park. Tread carefully.
Access to the La Perouse Glacier from the Grand Plateau
Route 13G, grade IV, 3+
The crossing of Clarke Saddle is high, steep, and usually only possible in early summer but, in condition, it provides fast access to the upper La Perouse névé.
There are usually good snow caving sites near the base of the west ridge of Malaspina.
Plateau Hut to the upper La Perouse névé in good conditions: 6–8 hrs
Routes into the lower Balfour valley
There are two main routes into the lower Balfour: over the Fox Range or from the lower Cook River. The routes converge at one important location – McKenna Saddle. The saddle is at the east end of the Hen and Chickens Ridge (the ridge separating the McKenna and Balfour Valleys) at 1270m.
Access to McKenna Saddle via the Fox Range
Route 13H, grade II, 2
The best route into the lower Balfour crosses the Fox Range near Craig Peak and descends to the head of McKenna Creek. To get onto the Fox Range, use one of the following three options:
-From the access road on the Fox valley south side, follow the track towards Chalet Lookout, and then boulder hop up Mills Creek. At 690m, take the true right fork, which is a large, open slip. There is a steep, loose gravel section at about 1000m. Follow the true right fork all the way up to the Alpine Gardens – an open area of gently sloping tussock at 1200–1400m with several large boulders. Frank Alack’s bivvy rock from the 1930s is here.
From the Alpine Gardens, climb the true right gully of upper Mills Creek-hard against the cliffs of Craig Peak-to reach the Fox Range east of Craig Peak at about 1740m. From Fox Glacier township, this looks like a continuous shelf, but it actually crosses over a series of steep spurs and gullies, with some steep gravel.
-As for the first option, but from the Alpine Gardens head up the true-left gully of upper Mills Creek to reach the Fox Range west of Craig Peak at about 1730m. This is less steep but there are several loose blocks at the top – take care.
-A longer but pleasant and technically easy option is to climb the track to Mt Fox and traverse the range past Craig Peak (grade II, 1).
To reach the head of McKenna Creek, the big gully between Pt 1710m and Pt 1687m can be descended if it’s full of snow. Later in the season, with less snow, descend the spur beginning at Pt 1710m, and then sidle left to reach McKenna Creek between 1100m and 1200m.
Cross the creek, climb up south-eastwards to about 1280m, and then traverse south above the prominent rock pyramid to reach McKenna Saddle.
From Mills Creek carpark to the crest of Fox Range (near Pt 1769m) via Alpine Gardens: 5–6 hrs
From SH6 to Pt 1769m via Mt Fox track: 8 hrs
From Pt 1769m to McKenna Saddle: 3.5 hrs (down), 4.5 hrs up
Access to McKenna Saddle from the Cook River bridge
Route 13I, grade II,2
If starting up the lower Cook River from SH6, travel up the true-right bank of the river through mostly open bush to the Craig/ Balfour confluence.
To avoid the Balfour gorge, scramble up Craig Creek to gain the 1600m level section of Craig Spur (near Pt 1642m). Do not try to cut out of the creek bed too soon as it’s very slow going up through the bush. From the ridge crest, pick a line down steep snowgrass slopes to McKenna Creek where there is good camping.
To reach the Balfour from here, hike upstream through some scrub to reach McKenna Saddle. It’s possible to travel downstream to the confluence with the Balfour River, but this is very scrubby and slow.
Charlie Douglas and Arthur Harper got to below the Balfour icefall in March 1894.
From Cook River bridge to lower McKenna Creek: one day
From lower McKenna Creek to McKenna Saddle: 2 hrs
Access from the Cook River to the Balfour Glacier via the Balfour River
Route 13J, grade IlI, 1+
The true right of the Balfour gorge has been used to exit the valley by at least two parties, but this involved two hard, slow days in the bush. Sidling up to 300m above river level would probably be required. Not at all recommended.
Access from McKenna Saddle to the lower Balfour
Route 13K, grade lI, 2+
From McKenna Saddle, when facing down valley, look for the most prominent spur on the Balfour side, beginning about 100m below the top of the ridge. It has an obvious gravel gully on its true left. Head west along the crest of the Hen and Chickens Ridge for about 200m, and then sidle diagonally down to reach the top of the gravel gully. The descending sidle is very steep in places but there is scrub to hold onto.
Once into the gully, the descent to the lateral moraine terrace is on steep gravel.
The moraine walls in the Balfour are generally easy to negotiate.
McKenna Saddle to Balfour Valley: 1–2 hrs
Some other crazy access possibilities
In December 1948, Bill Beavan, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane and Earle Riddiford made a difficult crossing from the Fox névé to the lower Balfour, from the Castries Glacier over the Fox Range west of Du Fresne, and then down a steep snow couloir – see Crozet Peak. This is not recommended.
If you are already on the Fox névé and want to reach the lower Balfour, it may be easier to descend the huge, steep snow couloir between Receveur Peak and Big Mac, or to gain the Fox Range west of Crozet Peak, and then descend to McKenna Saddle.
Access between the Balfour névé and the lower Balfour Glacier appears possible via snow and rock slopes between Kupe and Drake, but this has not been used. Access to and from the base of this route would be extremely dangerous due to the near constant avalanches from the Balfour icefall.
