Mt Magellan

(9 routes)

tba

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3049m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.570945270000, 170.142175100000
NZMS260: 
H36 792 334
Topo50: 
BX15 692 718
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Via Teichelmann 3
0
Traverse a sharp arête out to a prominent rock tower (not the summit), then down and along another sharp arête. A longer climb than it looks.
Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, D G Herron, Ed Hillary, Feb 1955.
South Face 4
0
Ascend a prominent rib that starts from the névé below the summit and leads out to the right of the summit. A short wall in the middle of the rib can be turned on the left. First climbed when well covered in snow.
Gordon Hasell, E R B Graham, T A Nuttall, Jan 1957.
Beuzenberg/ Braun-Elwert 3
0
Traverse a sharp arête west from Mt Teichelmann to a prominent rock tower (this is not the summit), then down and along another sharp arête. Other than abseiling the "Anyone Can Play Guitar" Route into the Balfour, this is the easiest way off Magellan. Also see the Via Teichelmann Route.
Erica Beuzenberg, Gottlieb Braun-Elwert, Jun 1989.
Outlier Buttress 4 14
0
A prominent rib leading onto the knob between Mts Teichelmann and Magellan is climbed by way of a crack system up the centre (crux 14).
Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nov 1976.
Balfour Buttress 4+ 15
1.02
Start at the toe of the buttress, beside an icefall, or from ramps to the right (which lead from the Magellan-Drake snow apron). Sustained climbing on excellent rock leads up with the climb slowly relenting (crux grade 15). Descend by either abseiling the " Anyone Can Play Guitar" Route or traverse to Teichelmann.
Stu Allan, Jim Jolly, Feb 1976.
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

Places

Type Title Edit link
Face (Alpine) West Face (4 routes)