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Magellan

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3049m
Part of
Balfour Range

tba

Lat/lon
-43.57094527,170.1421751, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 692 718
Accessed from
La Perouse Glacier
Balfour Glacier
Add Place Add Route

Places

Type Name Alert
Face West Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Via Teichelmann, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Traverse a sharp arête out to a prominent rock tower (not the summit), then down and along another sharp arête. A longer climb than it looks.
 South Face, 4 4 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

Ascend a prominent rib that starts from the névé below the summit and leads out to the right of the summit. A short wall in the middle of the rib can be turned on the left. First climbed when well covered in snow.
 Beuzenberg/ Braun-Elwert, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Traverse a sharp arête west from Mt Teichelmann to a prominent rock tower (this is not the summit), then down and along another sharp arête. Other than abseiling the "Anyone Can Play Guitar" Route into the Balfour, this is the easiest way off Magellan. Also see the Via Teichelmann Route.
 Outlier Buttress, 14,4 14,4 0m
0

This peak is higher in altitude than Mt Magellen and has a decently hard route from the Balfour side to confirm that it is an fact a genuine peak by itself.

  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

A prominent rib leading onto the knob between Mts Teichelmann and Magellan is climbed by way of a crack system up the centre (crux 14).
 Balfour Buttress, 15,4+ 15,4+ 0m
1.02
  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+

Start at the toe of the buttress, beside an icefall, or from ramps to the right (which lead from the Magellan-Drake snow apron). Sustained climbing on excellent rock leads up with the climb slowly relenting (crux grade 15). Descend by either abseiling the " Anyone Can Play Guitar" Route or traverse to Teichelmann.
Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
dad502d0-9305-425f-b1e1-8815e78272d9