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Mt Teichelmann / Rakirua

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3144m
Part of
Main Divide
Lat/lon
-43.57363689,170.146778, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 696 715
Accessed from
La Perouse Glacier
Grand Plateau
Balfour Glacier
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
13.16 13.16South West Face, V,5,5+ V,5,5+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5+

Start up steep gullies at the bottom centre of the face. Two pitches of steep ice in these gullies are the crux. They can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Several pitches up icefields lead to steep gullies that run up to the South Ridge (13 pitches in total).
4.41 4.41South Ridge, IV,3+,3- IV,3+,3- 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

Via Clarke Saddle, the route up the Main Divide to the peak is straightforward until the final summit cone where steep rock can be difficult and iced. If not covered by snow the rock is very loose.

4.42 4.42East Ridge, III,2+,3- III,2+,3- 0m
0

From Mt Graham the Main Divide ridge is a simple traverse until the exposed summit cone, which usually involves mixed snow and rock.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-
12.26 12.26Via the Main Divide, IV,2+,2+ IV,2+,2+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

Either via Silberhorn or Mt Graham, there is little difficulty apart from the final rock cone (it's choss). Also see route 4.43
12.27 12.27Couloir Route, IV,3,3 IV,3,3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

This gully on the north-western side of Mt Teichelmann has also been used as a descent route.
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
272cceb3-d144-4ece-a64c-a5623a29ca4b