Froggatt Edge was original found by Margot Harkness in 1990, a discovery that marked the
start of the climbing migration away from Wharepapa South (Castle Rock). Luke Newnham
was the first to put up climbs at Froggatt and kicked things off with, Monsterpiece Theatre,
Bete Noire & Sunstrike, not a bad start!
Luke then introduced the climbing world to Froggatt during the area’s first ever bouldering
comp. Following this a small group of Auckland based climbers set about bolting and
climbing this expanse of unclimbed rock and within a year there were 38 routes at the crag.
When Pete Mannings “CNI Rock” was published in 1992 it included these 38 routes, it also
listed the new route potential at Froggatt as being only “modest”. With this most moved
onto develop some of the area’s other crag’s leaving Luke Newnham, Ton Snelder and
Dave Vass to put up some of the crag’s harder lines. Andrew Wilson and co then pitched
in and added a long list of first ascents. In 1996 Andrew Wilson then published a guide for
Froggatt which include about 70 routes. The crag was re-bolted in 1997-98, during this re
bolting a lot of the lines between routes were filled in and new areas like Slug Wall were
opened up. By the time Dave Moorhouse’s guide was published in 1998 there were over
110 routes, not bad for a crag with modest new route potential.
The next significant development at Froggatt was not climbing related, but rather a
commercial development. The owner of “Castle Rock” brought Froggatt and began to
develop both crags for commercial climbing purposes. The new owner set about
transforming the crag ready for commercial use, scrub was removed, lines rebolted and
paths and sign posts installed. However at the time this guide was printed any plans to
charge for access had been put on hold, so with any luck the free access for climbers will