Main Cliff

(26 routes)

The routes on the Main Cliff start on the West facing wall immediately above the road. The
routes are described from left to right.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Shining Bright Despite the Plight 31 20m
0
10bolts
Was a project for a long time. A big scoop with calcite and old vines and lots of Sika holds. Very '90s French'.
Josh Evans
Gomjabbar 20 6m
0
2bolts
Small free standing buttress below and left of the Main Cliff.
Paul Burling
Spotty and Super Ted Strike Again 20 20m
0
4bolts
The gently overhanging face and right arete.
Last Night of the Poms 16 8m
0
3bolts
Climb the face on small pockets past 3 bolts. (DRB belay)
Sarah Massey, Adrian Jones 1998.
One for the Boys Back Home 19 15m
0
5bolts
Climb the face veering left near the top. Put up by a couple of English climbers while on a tour down under.
Sarah Massey, Adrian Jones 1998
Wall Flower 17 8m
0
4bolts
Follow the 4 bolts up the wall tending left-ish at the steep bit.
Bryce Martin 4-1-91.
Blazing away 17 8m
0
4bolts
Great heel-hooks. Climb the steep pocky face past 4 bolts and finish on the same ledge/cave system as White Christmas. (DRB belay)
Bryce Martin Roger Bays, Dave Garrity 29-12-90
White Christmas 16 15m
3
5bolts
The white right-facing corner, some of the cleanest rock around. Climb the corner and left wall to the generous belay ledge. Permanently dry, this route is very popular on rainy days. (DRB belay,
Bryce Martin, Pete Manning 29-12-90.
Burn 28 20m
0
7bolts
Start up the line of Automatic Dour but break left at the second bolt and ascend the steep overhanging wall.
Scott Mooney 1998.
Automatic Dour 27 15m
2.01
4bolts
Climbs the steep face and vague arete on small holds.
Chris Plant, 1-93
Be Happy 19 15m
0
4bolts
The face immediately left of the arete.
One Mans Meat 14 15m
0
5bolts
Climb the arete.
Bryce Martin 4-1-91.
Tulsa Time 19 20m
2.01
7bolts
Gain the ledge 2 metres off the deck, then blast up the steep head wall to another ledge near the top. One more hard move gets you to the belay.
Bryce Martin, Margot Harkness 16-12-90.
Powder Queen 18 20m
1.02
7bolts
Climb the corner then face up past 7 bolts, DRB belay.
Bryce Martin, Gerald Lanning. 8-12-90
Terror Incognita 18 25m
3
7bolts
A must-do crag classic! Start up the left side of the slab in the obvious corner. Veer left onto the arete, then follow the line of bolts back right and up the steepening pinnacle to the top.
Bryan Moore, Bryce Martin, 2 December 1990
Monsterpiece Theatre 20 25m
3
10bolts
The stunning corner line that started it all off at Froggatt. Climb the left facing corner and slab, move left at the roof, then once you have gained the lip of the roof traverse back right. You can climb straight up to this point, at about one grade harder. Pull over the roof onto the right arete then move right again higher up and climb straight up the middle of the head wall. A sustained route that used to require a very strong head and calm nerves, now it has been re-bolted with an additional 4 bolts , it just requires strong arms.
Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin , Bryan Moore 9-6-90
Climatic Extension 19 25m
2.01
11bolts
This is the direct finish to Climatic Conclusion, after the 7th bolt continue straight up the head wall, the right arete is in.
1998
Climatic Conclusion 17 20m
0
7bolts
Climb up the arete past 7 bolts then exit out right into the gully. (DRB belay)
Gerald Lanning, Bruce Culvert 8-12-90
Al Fresco 14 20m
0
5bolts
Climb the left facing corner then goes right to the finish. (DRB belay,
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 16-12-90.
Serife 16 20m
0
5bolts
The arete to the left of Total Energy. Pronounced sheer-if-ay. (Bloody Teachers)
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 16-12-90.
Total Energy 19 13m
0
5bolts
Climb the longer slab.
1998
Power Pack 18 13m
0
3bolts
Climb the short slab.
1998
Thunder Blaster 17 20m
0
7bolts
Climb the vertical face just to the left of the Bonne Anne arete. Easy climbing but with a very different and existing finish (crux).
David Moorhouse 1998.
Bonne Anne 16 20m
1.02
7bolts
Climbs the arete and face above. Depending on where the chinks in your armor are the crux is either the power moves at the base or the delicate slab move at the top.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 4-1-91.
Roadweary 18 20m
1.02
9bolts
Climb the shallow groove. The crux is climbing out of the groove and getting established on the wall above, but don’t relax too much, the moves up the slab will still keep you honest.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 4-1-91
Safe Playing 19 20m
2.01
8bolts
Starts left of the arete and climbs straight up the just less than vertical face (crux). Move onto the arete at the 5th bolt and follow the arete to the top.
Bryce Martin , Dan Hawthorn 3-11-90
UUID: 
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