Main Cliff | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The routes on the Main Cliff start on the West facing wall immediately above the road. The
routes are described from left to right.

Aspect

West

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Gomjabbar, 20	20	6m	2	0
P1 20 6m 2 Small free standing buttress below and left of the Main Cliff.
	Spotty and Super Ted Strike Again, 20	20	20m	4	0
P1 20 20m 4 The gently overhanging face and right arete.
	Last Night of the Poms, 16	16	8m	3	0
P1 16 8m 3 Climb the face on small pockets past 3 bolts. (DRB belay)
	One for the Boys Back Home, 19	19	15m	5	0
P1 19 15m 5 Climb the face veering left near the top. Put up by a couple of English climbers while on a tour down under.
	Wall Flower, 17	17	8m	4	0
P1 17 8m 4 Follow the 4 bolts up the wall tending left-ish at the steep bit.
	Blazing away, 17	17	8m	4	0
P1 17 8m 4 Great heel-hooks. Climb the steep pocky face past 4 bolts and finish on the same ledge/cave system as White Christmas. (DRB belay)
	White Christmas, 16	16	15m	5	3
P1 16 15m 5 The white right-facing corner, some of the cleanest rock around. Climb the corner and left wall to the generous belay ledge. Permanently dry, this route is very popular on rainy days. (DRB belay,
	Burn, 28	28	20m	7	0
P1 28 20m 7 Start up the line of Automatic Dour but break left at the second bolt and ascend the steep overhanging wall.
	Automatic Dour, 27	27	15m	4	2.01
P1 27 15m 4 Climbs the steep face and vague arete on small holds.
	Be Happy, 19	19	15m	4	0
P1 19 15m 4 The face immediately left of the arete.
	One Mans Meat, 14	14	15m	5	0
P1 14 15m 5 Climb the arete.
	Tulsa Time, 19	19	20m	7	2.01
P1 19 20m 7 Gain the ledge 2 metres off the deck, then blast up the steep head wall to another ledge near the top. One more hard move gets you to the belay.
	Powder Queen, 18	18	20m	7	1.02
P1 18 20m 7 Climb the corner then face up past 7 bolts, DRB belay.
	Terror Incognita, 18	18	25m	7	3
A must-do crag classic! Start up the left side of the slab in the obvious corner. Veer left onto the arete, then follow the line of bolts back right and up the steepening pinnacle to the top. P1 18 25m 7
	Monsterpiece Theatre, 20	20	25m	10	3
P1 20 25m 10 The stunning corner line that started it all off at Froggatt. Climb the left facing corner and slab, move left at the roof, then once you have gained the lip of the roof traverse back right. You can climb straight up to this point, at about one grade harder. Pull over the roof onto the right arete then move right again higher up and climb straight up the middle of the head wall. A sustained route that used to require a very strong head and calm nerves, now it has been re-bolted with an additional 4 bolts , it just requires strong arms.
	Climatic Extension, 19	19	25m	11	2.01
P1 19 25m 11 This is the direct finish to Climatic Conclusion, after the 7th bolt continue straight up the head wall, the right arete is in.
	Climatic Conclusion, 17	17	20m	7	0
P1 17 20m 7 Climb up the arete past 7 bolts then exit out right into the gully. (DRB belay)
	Al Fresco, 14	14	20m	5	0
P1 14 20m 5 Climb the left facing corner then goes right to the finish. (DRB belay,
	Serife, 16	16	20m	5	0
P1 16 20m 5 The arete to the left of Total Energy. Pronounced sheer-if-ay. (Bloody Teachers)
	Total Energy, 19	19	13m	5	0
P1 19 13m 5 Climb the longer slab.
	Power Pack, 18	18	13m	3	0
P1 18 13m 3 Climb the short slab.
	Thunder Blaster, 17	17	20m	7	0
P1 17 20m 7 Climb the vertical face just to the left of the Bonne Anne arete. Easy climbing but with a very different and existing finish (crux).
	Bonne Anne, 16	16	20m	7	1.02
P1 16 20m 7 Climbs the arete and face above. Depending on where the chinks in your armor are the crux is either the power moves at the base or the delicate slab move at the top.
	Roadweary, 18	18	20m	9	1.02
P1 18 20m 9 Climb the shallow groove. The crux is climbing out of the groove and getting established on the wall above, but don’t relax too much, the moves up the slab will still keep you honest.
	Safe Playing, 19	19	20m	8	2.01
P1 19 20m 8 Starts left of the arete and climbs straight up the just less than vertical face (crux). Move onto the arete at the 5th bolt and follow the arete to the top.

Comments

UUID

ca8625dd-5575-4000-a7e4-939f4f91ce1d