Following rumours of rock somewhere down Bayley Road, Bryce and Dave drove down to
have a look, and were amazed at the huge, crack-lined buttress just metres from the road.
The largest crack, Swallow, was the first route to be done, along with some more routes
on the stunning aretes of River Wall, just 100 m down the farm track.
Bayleys is probably the most cosmopolitan of the crags in this guide, as more than a
dozen climbers have done new routes here.
High quality aretes and corners are the most outstanding features of Bayleys, which gives
a great variety of distinctive arete, face, and corner climbing. For the trad climber, there
are half a dozen good crack climbs (unusual for Wharepapa ignimbrite) Still Crazy and
Jubilation Crack being outstanding examples.
Excellent bouldering is found in the paddock at the back of Monday Wall, and in the
boulder field next to the road, possibly the best at Wharepapa.
From Wharepapa, drive down Seafund Road past Smith and Sheridan, at the T
intersection, turn left down Balyey road. Follow this for about 5 km past Loop road and
down the hill. At the base of the hill is a large rock buttress with a crack up one side This
is the Bayleys’ “RaodSide”. Park in the layby just past this point .
Land Owners Name: John Locke.
Phone Number: (07) 872 2542
Access: Sign book before going onto property. (Don’t ask at House)
Crag will be closed to climbing during lambing, July 15th to
Parking: Park in the layby just down from the crag.
Note. If you wish to climb on the rocks on the other side of the river then you will need to
get permission from the Elliott’s. Their house is on the other side of the bridge.