A short way down river is the New Wall, which features some remarkable crack, corner,
and arete systems. The lines are so sharp they could have been cut with a knife.
The most obvious feature on the New Wall RHS is Still Crazy, a hand crack at the LH end
that goes the whole height of the cliff. A narrow cut track goes directly up to this crack
from which you access both the LHS and RHS of New Wall. A track or clear area goes all
the way along the base of the cliff To walk to the top of the wall go back to the farm track
and go down river about 50m to another narrow track. This goes directly to the top of the
cliff, which is quite open.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jubilation Crack | 21 | 15m |
|
 |
||||||
|
“About the best crack climb I’ve done outside the Bay” - Bryce Martin. Takes the widening
thin crack in the shallow corner immediately right of the Rata. The crux is the start and the
first few bridging moves. Beautiful finishing jugs only enhance an already classic crack.
Belay from a tree.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 29-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Big, My Favourite Size | 24 | 15m |
|
4 |
||||||
|
A face climb on the left of an impressive arete, 2m right of Jubilation Crack. 5 bolts in total,
one naked. The crux is between bolts 4 and 5. DBC belay.
Ton Snelder 31-1-93
|
||||||||||
| Consolation Crack | 15 | 12m |
|
|
||||||
|
Starts about 4m right of Jubilation Crack. A laid back, easy jam crack with the crux at the
start. Belay from some trees back from the top. Don’ t forget your #4 friends.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 20-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Adios Auckland | 15 | 12m |
|
7 |
||||||
|
Easy slab 1m right of 'Consolation Crack'. Put up on the way home to Wellington from a contract in Auckland. Shares anchors with '21'. TCB.
Marcus Manning 9-4-14
|
||||||||||
| 21 | 21 | 15m |
|
9 |
||||||
|
The arete between 'Adios Auckland' and 'Rolling Thunder'. So named as 21 years had passed since the last new route was put up at New Wall. Possibly also the grade. Shares anchors with 'AA'. TCB.
Marcus Manning 2-4-14
|
||||||||||
| Rolling Thunder | 21 | 15m |
|
|
||||||
|
A diagonal right leaning crack 5m left of Hydroslide, steepens towards the top. Belay off
trees about 5m from the edge.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 21-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Hydroslide | 17 | 15m |
|
|
||||||
|
This thin crack and right facing yellow corner is about 30m left of Still Crazy. Climb the
crack and exit left at the very top onto a steep ramp. Best done when dry. TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri, Dave Garrity 21-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Monkey Lust | 21 | 12m |
|
3 |
||||||
|
The overhanging wall with 3 bolts. Move left towards the top. Great climb. Walk back about
5m to belay off a pine tree 3m left of Redemption.
Bryce Martin 29-12-92
|
||||||||||
| VA-VODE | 12m |
|
4 |
|||||||
|
Face climb 2m right of Monkey Lust. 4 naked bolts and a tree belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 13-2-93
|
||||||||||
| Redemption | 17 | 10m |
|
|
2 | |||||
|
The first finger crack you come across when coming around from Still Crazy. Jam up to a
TBC belay. Not hard but somewhat awkward.
Dave Garrity, Pete Manning, Bryce Martin 29-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Grandmaster's Edge | 20 | 12m |
|
5 |
||||||
|
Arete left of Still Crazy. Climb right side mainly, to left between third and fourth bolts, to belay of Still Crazy
Andrew Wilkinson
|
||||||||||
| Still Crazy | 15 | 20m |
|
|
||||||
|
This perfect hand crack on perfect rock would not be out of place at Whanganui Bay. Near
enough to 3 friend size from top to bottom, with no real crux. Take #2.5-#4 friends, and as
many #3s as you can find. TBC belay at the ledge at the top. A real gem.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 31-10-92
|
||||||||||
| Don’t Know | 19 | 15m |
|
3 |
||||||
|
15m right of Still Crazy is a pine tree. Found another 3m further right.
The LHS of a wide shallow grove. Place some wires for the first few meters to gain the first of
3 naked bolts. Move right at the top to the middle of the headwall, DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 19-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Indecisive | 21 | 15m |
|
4 |
||||||
|
Bridge up the corner moving left at the top to clip the top bolt of Don’t Know for a total of 4
naked bolts. In a word, awkward.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 20-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Yellow Arete | 18 | 12m |
|
3 |
||||||
|
Look for a pine tree 12m right of Still Crazy. The arete is stained by a fine yellow lichen.
Some of the best moves around. 3 naked bolts and a TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, Michael Camilleri 19-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Cliffs Climb | 19 | 15m |
|
2 |
|
|||||
|
You shouldn’t have skipped this day trip, Cliff. This corner shares the DBC belay of Beg To
Differ to the right. Uses some small wire placements between the 2 naked bolts. Move right
on big holds after the fixed peg at the top to a DBC belay. Among the best routes on the
wall.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 15-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Beg to Differ | 18 | 15m |
|
2 |
|
|||||
|
Climb up past two bolts to a seam which takes a #3 and #3.5 friend. Run it out from here
up and left to a DBC belay. Nice big holds make this climb easier than it appears from the
ground.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 28-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Silver Service | 17 | 15m |
|
4 |
||||||
|
The next corner 3m right.
A really user-friendly climb that should see many ascents. 4 naked bolts and a TBC belay
on the right wall.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 28-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Gourmet Delight | 20 | 15m |
|
3 |
||||||
|
Another obvious corner 4m to the right. The meal continues with a course of veges. Three naked bolts and a bolt with hanger
complete the meal. There are plenty of pockets around the social climbing fern, so please
leave it alone. Finish up a ramp to the belay of Silver Service.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 20-12-92
|
||||||||||
| Naturally | 19 | 15m |
|
|
||||||
|
Dust off your rack for this one. The first runner is a #4 friend in a long deep pocket on the
right about 4m up. Continue with wires in the thin crack. DBC belay at the top on the
right.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 28-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Preservatives Added | 20 | 15m |
|
5 |
||||||
|
A large tree fern is about 5m to the right. Go past this another 7m and down to a cabbage
tree:
As the vicar said to the groom “Save your strength for the end”. 5 naked bolts up to the
DBC belay of Naturally.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 25-4-93
|
||||||||||
| Double Trouble | 20 | 15m |
|
5 |
||||||
|
Possibly the best climb on the wall ascends a very impressive sharp, clean arete. The crux
is at the start, as Mike and Tim found much to Bryce’s amusement. 5 naked bolts and a
TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri, Tim Goodwin 20-1-93
|
||||||||||
| Yertle theTurtle | 20 | 12m |
|
2 |
|
|||||
|
A buttress/face climb sporting two naked bolts. Place a #3 friend in a pocket in between.
Great finishing moves up to a DBC belay. Completes the Turtle Trilogy of Turtle Power at
Froggatt and Turtle on a Stick at Bosch.
Bryce Marytin, Cliff Ellery 28-11-92
|
||||||||||
| Flight of the Goodwin | 19 | 8m |
|
2 |
||||||
|
Tim Goodwin was grounded after this one. A huge fall ripped out the top bolt and a RP
hanger off the remaining bolt, depositing Tim upside down in a blackberry bush.. We
dragged him out by his ankles, stuffed him full of panadol, carried him to the car (losing his
10 year old rope in the process) and drove him back to Auckland, lying across the back seat
and moaning. Then Bryce stole his route. Haven’t seen Tim out climbing for a while. 2
naked bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin 15-5-93
|
||||||||||