New Wall

(24 routes)

A short way down river is the New Wall, which features some remarkable crack, corner,
and arete systems. The lines are so sharp they could have been cut with a knife.
The most obvious feature on the New Wall RHS is Still Crazy, a hand crack at the LH end
that goes the whole height of the cliff. A narrow cut track goes directly up to this crack
from which you access both the LHS and RHS of New Wall. A track or clear area goes all
the way along the base of the cliff To walk to the top of the wall go back to the farm track
and go down river about 50m to another narrow track. This goes directly to the top of the
cliff, which is quite open.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Jubilation Crack 21 15m
3
wire representing trad
“About the best crack climb I’ve done outside the Bay” - Bryce Martin. Takes the widening thin crack in the shallow corner immediately right of the Rata. The crux is the start and the first few bridging moves. Beautiful finishing jugs only enhance an already classic crack. Belay from a tree.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 29-12-92
Big, My Favourite Size 24 15m
1.02
4bolts
A face climb on the left of an impressive arete, 2m right of Jubilation Crack. 5 bolts in total, one naked. The crux is between bolts 4 and 5. DBC belay.
Ton Snelder 31-1-93
Consolation Crack 15 12m
0
wire representing trad
Starts about 4m right of Jubilation Crack. A laid back, easy jam crack with the crux at the start. Belay from some trees back from the top. Don’ t forget your #4 friends.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 20-12-92
Adios Auckland 15 12m
0
7bolts
Easy slab 1m right of 'Consolation Crack'. Put up on the way home to Wellington from a contract in Auckland. Shares anchors with '21'. TCB.
Marcus Manning 9-4-14
21 21 15m
1.02
9bolts
The arete between 'Adios Auckland' and 'Rolling Thunder'. So named as 21 years had passed since the last new route was put up at New Wall. Possibly also the grade. Shares anchors with 'AA'. TCB.
Marcus Manning 2-4-14
Rolling Thunder 21 15m
0
wire representing trad
A diagonal right leaning crack 5m left of Hydroslide, steepens towards the top. Belay off trees about 5m from the edge.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 21-11-92
Hydroslide 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
This thin crack and right facing yellow corner is about 30m left of Still Crazy. Climb the crack and exit left at the very top onto a steep ramp. Best done when dry. TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri, Dave Garrity 21-11-92
Monkey Lust 21 12m
2.01
3bolts
The overhanging wall with 3 bolts. Move left towards the top. Great climb. Walk back about 5m to belay off a pine tree 3m left of Redemption.
Bryce Martin 29-12-92
VA-VODE 12m
0
4bolts
Face climb 2m right of Monkey Lust. 4 naked bolts and a tree belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 13-2-93
Redemption 17 10m
0
wire representing trad 2
The first finger crack you come across when coming around from Still Crazy. Jam up to a TBC belay. Not hard but somewhat awkward.
Dave Garrity, Pete Manning, Bryce Martin 29-12-92
Grandmaster's Edge 20 12m
1.02
5bolts
Arete left of Still Crazy. Climb right side mainly, to left between third and fourth bolts, to belay of Still Crazy
Andrew Wilkinson
Still Crazy 15 20m
2.01
wire representing trad
This perfect hand crack on perfect rock would not be out of place at Whanganui Bay. Near enough to 3 friend size from top to bottom, with no real crux. Take #2.5-#4 friends, and as many #3s as you can find. TBC belay at the ledge at the top. A real gem.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 31-10-92
Don’t Know 19 15m
0
3bolts
15m right of Still Crazy is a pine tree. Found another 3m further right. The LHS of a wide shallow grove. Place some wires for the first few meters to gain the first of 3 naked bolts. Move right at the top to the middle of the headwall, DBC belay.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 19-12-92
Indecisive 21 15m
0
4bolts
Bridge up the corner moving left at the top to clip the top bolt of Don’t Know for a total of 4 naked bolts. In a word, awkward.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 20-12-92
Yellow Arete 18 12m
1.02
3bolts
Look for a pine tree 12m right of Still Crazy. The arete is stained by a fine yellow lichen. Some of the best moves around. 3 naked bolts and a TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, Michael Camilleri 19-12-92
Cliffs Climb 19 15m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
You shouldn’t have skipped this day trip, Cliff. This corner shares the DBC belay of Beg To Differ to the right. Uses some small wire placements between the 2 naked bolts. Move right on big holds after the fixed peg at the top to a DBC belay. Among the best routes on the wall.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri 15-12-92
Beg to Differ 18 15m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Climb up past two bolts to a seam which takes a #3 and #3.5 friend. Run it out from here up and left to a DBC belay. Nice big holds make this climb easier than it appears from the ground.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 28-11-92
Silver Service 17 15m
2.01
4bolts
The next corner 3m right. A really user-friendly climb that should see many ascents. 4 naked bolts and a TBC belay on the right wall.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 28-11-92
Gourmet Delight 20 15m
1.02
3bolts
Another obvious corner 4m to the right. The meal continues with a course of veges. Three naked bolts and a bolt with hanger complete the meal. There are plenty of pockets around the social climbing fern, so please leave it alone. Finish up a ramp to the belay of Silver Service.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 20-12-92
Naturally 19 15m
2.01
wire representing trad
Dust off your rack for this one. The first runner is a #4 friend in a long deep pocket on the right about 4m up. Continue with wires in the thin crack. DBC belay at the top on the right.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 28-11-92
Preservatives Added 20 15m
0
5bolts
A large tree fern is about 5m to the right. Go past this another 7m and down to a cabbage tree: As the vicar said to the groom “Save your strength for the end”. 5 naked bolts up to the DBC belay of Naturally.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery 25-4-93
Double Trouble 20 15m
2.01
5bolts
Possibly the best climb on the wall ascends a very impressive sharp, clean arete. The crux is at the start, as Mike and Tim found much to Bryce’s amusement. 5 naked bolts and a TBC belay.
Bryce Martin, Michael Camilleri, Tim Goodwin 20-1-93
Yertle theTurtle 20 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A buttress/face climb sporting two naked bolts. Place a #3 friend in a pocket in between. Great finishing moves up to a DBC belay. Completes the Turtle Trilogy of Turtle Power at Froggatt and Turtle on a Stick at Bosch.
Bryce Marytin, Cliff Ellery 28-11-92
Flight of the Goodwin 19 8m
0
2bolts
Tim Goodwin was grounded after this one. A huge fall ripped out the top bolt and a RP hanger off the remaining bolt, depositing Tim upside down in a blackberry bush.. We dragged him out by his ankles, stuffed him full of panadol, carried him to the car (losing his 10 year old rope in the process) and drove him back to Auckland, lying across the back seat and moaning. Then Bryce stole his route. Haven’t seen Tim out climbing for a while. 2 naked bolts and a DBC belay.
Bryce Martin 15-5-93