Te Ika A Maui

(7 routes)

Named for the prominent pinnacle of rock with flakes shaped like the North Island. The
Kiwi answer to the North America Wall at Yosemite I suppose. It is across the river from
New Wall. If you are lucky you can ford the river, otherwise get access from the road (see
map).

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Left Rib 14 9m
0
2bolts
Upstream from the pinnacle is a separate smallish crag with 2 easy bolted routes. Climb the LH buttress. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.
Calvin Mora, Pete Swanson, Pete Manning Aug-93
Right Rib 16 9m
0
2bolts
Climb the RH wall. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.
Calvin Mora, Pete Swanson, Pete Manning Aug-93
Dogus Knobus 19 15m
0
5bolts
Half way along the main wall is a short corner with a small cabbage tree on top: On the main pinnacle. 30m left of Helen. 5 naked bolts. DBC belay.
Pete Swanson, Bryce Martin 28-12-93
Helen 22 16m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Left of Svine Werst up a steep corner. Climb the right wall past a large pockets (#3.5 friend placement), then follow 3 bolts to the top. The crux is below the second bolt.
Pete Swanson 93
Svine Werst 16 ,17 45m
0
2bolts
Hopefully not a commentary on the quality of the climb.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mNo
 Scramble to the base of a corner and belay on a bracken covered ledge.
2170m2No
 Climb an easy wall past 2 bolts. Bold moves to finish.
Pete Swanson, Calvin Mora 93
Le Pommeaux du Chieu 20 , 45m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Start up the open book corner -2 bolts to a large ledge and belay on nuts and friends.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12045m2Yes
 Start up the open book corner -2 bolts to a large ledge and belay on nuts and friends.
20m1Yes
 Climb the corner crack to a ledge. Lauch left up onto a wall past 1 bolt. Place a #1.5 friend in a horizontal crack before the second bolt. Top out on the pinnacle. The DBC belay is in a pretty wild spot!
Pete Swanson, Calvin Mora 14-8-93
R18 18 5m
0
1bolts
Some distance downstream and up the slope is a prominent knob of rock. Can’t miss it really: The singularly unique rock across the river from the New Wall. Cliff got stick for months over this one, especially since he nearly creamed himself after falling off near the top. Freud would have had a field day. One naked (what else!) bolt. No belay, so walk off the back.
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin 25-4-93