Leaning Buttress

(5 routes)

Flush with enthusiasm due to the red hot redevelopment going on at New Wall LHS, Bryce came down to put up something new. A route was spotted, a rope was slung, and Bryce disappeared over the top to clean it. The enthusiasm evaporated the lower he got down the cliff, so that by the bottom he was looking somewhat dejected.

"You know, that's going to be quite hard"

With that he wandered away down to hill to look for something new. Ten minutes later he was back bursting with enthusiasm again.

"I've found a new crag, it needs no cleaning!"

and with that, he was gone.


From New Wall LHS, walk down the hill past 'Jubilation Crack' toward the stream. On reaching the fence, look over it. 'Leaning Butress' is the craglet in front of you, 50 odd metres away, facing 'Monday Wall'.

As 'Leaning Buttress' is opposite 'Monday Wall', access from the car park is pretty much the same. From River Wall follow the farm track along the river to a set of double gates. If there is no maize crop, head through the gates and bear rightish up the slope until 'New Wall' comes into view in front of you. Walk through the gates close to the base of 'New Wall LHS', into the paddock containing 'Monday Wall'. 'Leaning Buttress' is opposite 'Monday Wall', in the paddock up the hill, beside 'New Wall LHS'.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
You're a Big Girl Now 18 12m
wire representing trad
The obvious corner crack on the left hand side of the crag. DBC Belay
Bryce / Marcus
About Face 18 15m
Work up the side of the fallen slab, then cut across onto the vertical arete. DBC belay.
Fallen Slab 15 8m
Womble up the fallen slab in the centre of the crag. DBC belay
A Dave Garrity Special 15 12m
wire representing trad 2
Starting behind Fallen Slab, grovel up the chimney. It's awesome. Follow the crack to the top to finish. DBC belay.
Arms Be Dextrous 18 12m
One or two cams, then bolts. DBC belay