CRAG IS CLOSED TO CLIMBING AT THE MOMENT
As you may know, local climbers have been in negotiations with the Mauao trust (the owners of Mauao) about the future of climbing on Mount Maunganui. At this stage the trust have asked me to make it known that climbing is not yet permitted on Mount Maunganui and they ask that climbers do not use the crags until an agreement has been reached.
Negotiations continue and I am hopeful of a good, lasting resolution. However, if we do not respect the owners wishes at this time we could lose access to this crag. Please pass this message on to anyone who may not see it here, including foreign or visiting climbers. I will keep you up to date on developments.
Mt Maunganui (Mauao) is located in the western Bay of Plenty at the mouth of the Port of Tauranga Harbour. The crags are just off the beach and close to the local township, so don't expect a remote experience however there is easy access to a coffee and swimming if that's what you're looking for.The climbs are generally clean and solid though there are some routes establish edamongst poor quality rock - care should be taken not to lobotomise your belayer.The access track sees plenty of traffic so expect passers-by and perhaps an audience. Please be considerate to other users. Consider all routes to be bolted unless stated otherwise and all routes are described left to right.
There are few traditionally protected routes here but if your do pack the rack you'llneed a full rack of cams and wires plus hexes if you have them and 10quickdraws.
Mount Maunganui is in the western Bay Of Plenty, surely the jewel of New Zealands provinces. To reach the crag head to the Mt Maunganui beach, at the base of Mt Maunganui (Mauao). Find the surf club on the west end of the mount beach and then climb the Mount using the summit track (Oruaine track), staying on the seaward side. It is a well benched, easy track and a 15 minute walk will get you to Cables Wall.
Le Altar and the Move Buttress
Two great little crags located above the access track - sadly access is currently closed to both.
The author urges climbers to respect the current climbing ban here so as not to endanger access to all climbing areas. Le Altar is located above the Cables Wall and the Move Buttress is located near the summit in the vicinty of the windsock.