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Mike Memorial Wall

Type
Part of

A nice progression from the Cables Wall and a good spot if your looking for longer routes.
To the left is a spot to drop your bags and several fun routes steeper than at Cables.

Image
Aspect
North West
Access

Continuing past the Warratah Wall and 30 metres down the access track is the largest face on the Mount, the middle section of which protrudes right on to the path.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
14 14Midori Illusion, 17 17 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 4

The right most route on this face, climb off above the flax bush past four bolts to a DRB anchor


15 15Mike Memorial, 16 16 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 3
  • Trad

Through the weak line on the blunt arete to a anchor shared with the route to the left.Three bolts to the anchor. Originally a trad climb during the FA, Mike Avard took a fallfrom the top moves onto a horizontal hex at half height. His belayer jumping back tothe path gave him a comfortable three feet from the ground!


16 16Mono, 20 20 10m 2
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 2

The first clip is the peg,keep climbing past two bolts and the bulge to anchor.


17 17Rolande Gerade Gemacht, 20 20 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 3

Takes the centre line and passes left of the broken flake near the bottom of the crag.Well protected crux but some spaced holds, climb past three bolts to the anchor


18 18The Shoulder, 18 18 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • 4

Steeper than you'd expect but good holds up there. This line takes the face immediately left of the obvious chimney. Four bolts and well worth the outing.


19 19Dropkick Wizzer, 18 18 22m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 22m

Walk past the gully and back down on to the path, there are variations on the start of this route, so choose your own. This wandering route moves through the small roof and up over the arete moving left. Stick to the arete through fantastic airy moves and a run out finish.


20 20Cosmic Baby, 21 21 22m 9
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 22m
  • 9

Takes the direct line through the roof and headwall. Sustained moves at the top ofthis route, keep left of the cleft at the top of the face.


 Tsunami, 17 17 22m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 22m

This route is a variation of 'Surfs Up'. Start at the glue directly to the right of the start of 'Cosmic Baby', pull the roof past two more and move right to join 'Surfs Up'. A must do route and best at the grade at the Mount.


21 21Surfs Up, 17 17 22m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 22m

A wandering route that passes through the weakness in the roof from right to left.Long slings will help with the rope drag as you move right up the ramp on great holds. Move left again to the cleft in the rock and up to a shared anchor with Cosmic Baby, eight bolts. It has an easy but exposed finish.


 The Great Rock and Roll Trundle, 18 18 22m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 22m
  • Trad

The distinctive crack up the face and through the overhang. All trad baby til you clip the anchor of Scott's Climb. Legend has it originally sent in Mum's slippers!


23 23Scott's Climb, 20 20 22m 6
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 22m
  • 6

Some would say the best route on the Mount. This outing is unmissable - just look for the six shiny ring bolts though the roof.


24 24Big Fanny, 16 16 22m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 22m
  • Trad

Brought a rack? This trad line takes the crack system to the right of Scott's Climb. It doesn't see a lot of traffic so maybe dirty at times, but good well protected bridging, finishing out left to Scott's bolt belay.


24a 24aFandango, 20 20 18m 5
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 5

A bolted climb up the right wall of Big Fanny, an initial scramble up to the right side of the blocky overhang. Then pull over this on the right side and climb the wall past five bolts. A grade easier if a rest is taken bridging across the gully to the right. DRB Belay.


25 25Wongi's Wife, 19 19 16m 5
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 16m
  • 5

This balancey route requires a little less grunt and more finesse than the last offerings.Protected by five bolts, start from the broken ground and move up keeping right of the seam to a DRB.


26 26De Homme Semence, 18 18 16m 3
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 16m
  • 3

Takes the centre of this face and shares a DRB with #25. A high first clip, use your feet on his delicate number past three bolts.


27 27Au Vue, 18 18 18m 4
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • 4

Starts in the weak band of rock. Climb to the right of the seam until the ledge until finishing at the ledge and anchor.


 Skinny and Fatty, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

The trad line to the right of the bolted face routes.


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