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Flesh Buttress

Type
Sector
Part of
Mt Maunganui

From Mike Memorial there are several scattered lines on your way to the FleshButtress. Just before the route 'Gentic' there is a band of rock with two large scoops in it, this is the Flesh Buttress. Between and above the scoops is a black streak, while a yellow streak runs up to the right. From the left most scoop Fleschbesau runs up throught the black streak. There is a partly bolted line to the right of Flying Rats - be warned it is a half protected unfinished project and climbers risk serious injury trying this without more bolting, but it can be top roped.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
33 33Bacon Butties, 16 16 12m 5
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 12m
  • 5

From start of TVP scramble up the ramp / groove on the left to the first bolt (as for Forgotten). Climb up past more bolts on to the left side of the sloping ledge of TVP, and up that to the DRB anchor. A little run out but not difficult to the second bolt.
34 34Textured Vegetable Protein, 18 18 16m 7
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 16m
  • 7

Left of Flesichbeschau, from same starting ledge. Climb the slab to the left side of the left hand scoop, and out to small ledge on the left arete. Step right and up the crack/groove to move onto the sloping ledge, and up the wall to DRB belay
35 35Fleischbeschau, 23 23 20m 6
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 6

Up the easy slab to the scoop and first bolt.Follow the black streak up past five more bolts to the anchor. Nice climbing, keeping just right of the seam the whole way.
36 36Flying Rats, 25 25 18m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 5

Start by clipping the first two bolts of Fleischbesaur, then move right and sustained moved lead up to the anchors passing three more bolts. Direct start by Kerry Crawford May 2017.
37 37The Lord of Bones, 19 19 20m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 7

The rib at the right side of the cave/scoop right of Fleischbeschau. Climb to the rib, keeping left of the pohutokawa. Crux section between fourth and sixth bolts. Finish at DRB
38 38Too Orangey For Crows, 17 17 25m 8
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 8

Right of Lord of Bones, climb rocky steps to a ledge. Up slabby rock then the steeper black streak. Finish up more blocky rock to Kia Ora the DRB.
38b 38bDirty Deeds, 19 19 18m 7
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 18m
  • 7

This needed a lot of cleaning. Start up slabby rock left of Ulex Europeaus/ Gentic, to the hand crack. Up this then rightwards in front of the wedged block. Up the headwall to crux as the angle eases off. DRB.
 Ulex Europeaus, 14 14
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Directly past Flesh Buttress is the last area on the Oruahine track, pictured. The obvious off-width to the left of Gentic. This traditionally protected route has poor protection and if you hold your tongue right a poor anchor can be arranged at the top. Still keen? Thutch your way to glory.
39 39Gentic, 18 18 13m 6
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 13m
  • 6

The last sport route before the summit. This sport route skirts the edge of the scoop and continues up past six bolts to end 3/4 of the way up the face at the DBC anchor.
 Gogarth, 15 15
0
  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

This wandering trad route starts around the arete from Gentic. At the base of the scoop traverse out right to the ledge and then up the RHS of the massive scoop to the bushes and build an anchor.
 Green Room, 23 23
0
  • P1
  • 23

On the far side of the island, hidden in the bush near the shore is the following route. The steep sport route with the chain link hangers.
38a 38aWaiting On Winston, 23 23 18m 5
0
  • P1
  • 23
  • 18m
  • 5

The steep grooved rib left of Dirty Deeds provides the crux, after an easy start. DRB.

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f8833a95-ab33-487a-ae35-e669fbe0de8b