Short Routes

(12 routes)

From Mike Memorial wall walk up the path 20 metres to the next bend in the path.Here is a prominent arete with a flat face at it's base. The top right hand side ofthis face has a large sculpted hole with honeycomb features. This arete looksback towards Mike Memorial right side and there are a few routes in it's vicinity.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
27a Swamp Donkey 18 20m
0
6bolts
Start in the corner left of the arete, as Simone, then break out left past the first bolt (can also be used on Simone to make the start less bold). The crux is passing the bulge between the second and third bolts. There are several variations but the easiest just left of the bush. Good technical crux following the bolts directly. There is some brittle rock near the top, so pull carefully (which will be sorted with some traffic). Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson 11/02/16
Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson 11/2/2016
28 Simone 18 12m
0
6bolts
Starting from the base of the face and climbing direct, or from the short arete to it's left climb easy ground to the high first clip (now possible to use the first clip of Swamp Donkey to reduce the risk - therefore 6bolts) then continue up and right through featured terrain to the blunt arete above the sculpted hole. Climb up and left to the ledge and DRB anchor.
Phil Higgins
28a No flag, no country 16 16m
1.02
5bolts
Right of Simone, is a common start for several routes, up a groove of slightly suspect but well proven rock. Climb the common start to the first bolt then move leftwards and up to the belay. Excellent rock after the first clip. DRBB
Christian Richardson, Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner 4/02/2016
28b Generativity Versus Stagnation 19 20m
1.02
7bolts
Named as the ascentionists wheelbarrowed a generator to the crag to power the drill. Start as Left and Right routes to the ledge right of the first bolt. Climb straight up passing the break and up the upper arete (left of LR), with six more bolts, to the very top. DRB belay.
Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, 27/09/14
29 Left Route 20
1.02
6bolts 1
On the other side of the 'Simone' arete are five routes with a shared start. Some of the rock near the wide half way break may be loose so climb with care. From the path, easy climbing up to the first bolt and then traverse right and up to the horizontal break. Climb the middle bolt route past six bolts in total. Good technical moves on solid rock on the headwall. DRB on ledge above.
Owen Keet
30 Right Route 22
0
Takes the right most line, follow the line of bolts keeping left of the crack. DRB
Owen Keet
30a Right Good Crack 19 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Crack right of Right Route. Start as Left and Right Routes to the second bolt, then up the crack to the cave on the right (Large cam in floor, small cams in roof). Finger jam out of the cave and up the upper crack, moving left at the top to Right Wall belay, medium and small wires.
Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner,
31 Dolt 20 9m
0
2bolts
Keep walking past this area until you reach a set of stairs further up the path. At the top of these stairs are two short routes, as pictured right. Straight off the scoop keep left of the arete and jam the crack with carefully placed feet. Chisel fingers help. Up thin moves past the second bolt to rap off the DBC on thesmall ledge. The rock quality in this area is not great!
Phil Higgins 02
32 Grimper 24 7m
0
2bolts
Keep to the right of the arete and climb steep moves past two bolts. Good holds.
Phil Higgins 02
32a Pork Scratchings 19 6m
0
2bolts
Five meters right of Grimper, climb the steep wall past two bolts to DRB belay, on good enough rock.
Andrew Wilkinson;
32b Forgotten 18 10m
0
3bolts
Now remembered. Walking past these shorties keep an eye peeled for the face up to your left. Scramble up the grassy ramp to the ledge and belay on the first bolt of Bacon Butty. Climb up the face to the left past three bolts between the two seams to move right onto slabby rock and DRB belay. Was protected by three rusty pegs and a sandbag at 14. Good climbing.
(Retrobolted and climbed 27/09/15 by Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner and Christian Richardson)
32c Dissociative Amnesia 20 10m
0
3bolts
The seam right of Forgotten, hard moves where the seam narrows, and the slabby ledge is gained. DRB shared with Forgotten. Can belay to the first bolt of Bacon Butty, and in this area nice not to be on the track.
Andrew Wilkinson 27/09/15

Comments

Note: Routes "Right Good Crack" and "Generativity Versus Stagnation" are on Short Routes area (not Short Walls as states)