Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| East Face, 3+ | 3+ | |||||
From the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon climb directly to the summit detouring where icecliffs dictate. |
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| 11.112 | 11.112From Marcel Col, 2,III,2 | 2,III,2 | ||||
From Marcel Col, the route is straightforward on moderate snow slopes, although hard ice can form easily here, especially in winter. You’ll also find good evidence of climate change here: a large gap is starting to form about halfway up the ridge and soon we may see exposed rock, which will make this route more difficult. A sad sign of the times. This is the most common way to access Engineer Col and the North Shoulder of Tasman. It’s also the recommended descent route, but beware of the cornice that sometimes form on the summit of Lendenfeld. |
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| 11.113 | 11.113Aurora Australis, 3,III,3 | 3,III,3 | ||||
Gain the large snow shelf left of Hamilton-Berry Rib by a short rock/mixed step. Ascend to the top left end of the snow shelf through a mixed gully to the summit ice cap. |
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| 11.114 | 11.114North Gully, 3+,III | 3+,III | ||||
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Follow the chimney immediately left of Hamilton-Berry Rib, or mixed ground either side of the gully. Six rope lengths to the snowfield.
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| 11.115 | 11.115Hamilton-Berry Rib, 4,III,3+ | 4,III,3+ | ||||
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The bottom 200m provides steep, sound climbing up to grade 14. The rib then slowly relents to form a ‘Giant’s Staircase’. A good, classic route.
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| Midsummer Muntaneering, 15,3+,III,4+ | 15,3+,III,4+ |  |
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Probable new route between Hamilton Berry rib and NW rib.
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| 11.116 | 11.116North West Couloir, 3,III,3 | 3,III,3 | ||||
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Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack snow/ice later in summer, making rockfall almost constant.
Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack ice later in summer. |
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| 11.117 | 11.117North West Rib, 4,III,3+ | 4,III,3+ | ||||
Parallels the Hamilton-Berry Rib, with good climbing on slabs and ribs of excellent rock. |
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| 11.118 | 11.118Adventure Philosophy, 4+,IV | 4+,IV | ||||
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Start up the gully on the left-hand side of the face until a ramp system is reached. Follow the ramp right until near the middle, then climb straight up to the summit. A few grade 13-14 pitches.
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| 11.119 | 11.119The Mutant, 6,IV,6+ | 6,IV,6+ | |
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This is the striking five pitch chimney in the middle of the face. In summer this is a great rock climb on a sunny face; in winter and spring it provides classic mixed and ice climbing with good rock protection. The second ascent team used a small amount of aid on the crux pitch, due to melting ice. From the top of the chimney, five more pitches take you to the summit. 9 pitches.
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| 11.120 | 11.120West Face Direct, 16,5+,IV,4 | 16,5+,IV,4 | ||||
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A hard climb on excellent rock (sustained grade 15-16), commencing to the right of The Mutant chimney. ‘Similar to, but harder than the South Face of Hicks’ – Ken Hyslop.
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| 11.121 | 11.121Allen-Williams, 5,IV | 5,IV | ||||
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Head up the gully to the right of the West Face Direct route until you can access a line that leads to a ledge system through the prominent arête. Once on the face proper, continue up two more pitches to join the Direct.
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| 11.122 | 11.122South West Ridge, 2,III,2 | 2,III,2 | ||||
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This ridge is usually used when traversing Lendenfeld en route to Tasman. Between the summit and the col the ridge is straightforward. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off.
Straightforward, but slightly threatened by avalanches off Mt Tasman. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off. |
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Images
Photo by Clayton Garbes
Thanks Simon I've been unblocked from ClimbNZ and can now post routes again using the link buttons you mentioned that oddly were never there until today. It's a pity this climb didn't make into Rob Frosts Mt Cook guidebook, however I left the direct start of it you to claim for yourself, it's a separate climb in itself and looks like some fun route to climb in rock shoes.
I'Il post the route pics on Facebook, because I can't get any links or clicks to work on this ClimbNZ page and haven't been able to for all of 10 years. In fact I was only given access to log into this site again in the last year or two. I can post messages but are denied access to posting anything starting new messages and reporting new routes.
My Facebook name is Peter Dickson
Hi Peter
Under the picture at the top on left are a couple of buttons. Add a Place or Add a route. Click add a route. This adds a "child" to the parent ( in This case Lendenfeld). Fill in the blurb. Save. Afterwards you will need to put it in the right order as new children are put at bottom of the list. To do that go to the Parent ( Lendenfeld) above the picture and click on "children". You can drag them into order by the + on left. It is also possible to add a route here without going through the previous step. Make sure you save child order.
In reply to Hi Peter by cragrat
Can you do it for me Simon, I don't have the nounce.
How to add a new route?
route name is "Midsomer Muntaneering"
In reply to route name is "Midsomer by Peter Dickson
Good job on the route Peter. Could you please add it to the database?
Probable new route between HB rib and NW rib.
This rock route takes the right hand visual profile as seen from Pioneer Hut.
Start up snow just left of bottom of rib and cut onto rock at any convenience. Follow the rib traversing along pinnacles, chevals, loose sections, until the obvious black triangular wall is attained. Traverse a rising ledge/ramp up the black wall from left to right. Finish straight up wide cracks or shallow chimney (crux 15). The route then merges with the upper section of the Hamilton Berry rib.
This is a challenging and interesting mountaineering route which requires some care, however it is not technical rock climb.
Alpine grade 4. Peter K-D, Lisa Wynne, December 2011
In reply to Probable new route between HB by Peter Dickson
Do you have some pics or photo topo you could upload to show the line ?