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Lendenfeld Pk

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3149m
Part of
Main Divide
Lat/lon
POINT (170.1696408 -43.559823)
Topo50
BX15 714 731
Accessed from
Grand Plateau
Fox Glacier Te Moeka o Tuawe
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 East Face, 3+ 3+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

From the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon climb directly to the summit detouring where icecliffs dictate.
11.112 11.112From Marcel Col, III,2,2 III,2,2 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

From Marcel Col, the route is straightforward on moderate snow slopes, although hard ice can form easily here, especially in winter. You’ll also find good evidence of climate change here: a large gap is starting to form about halfway up the ridge and soon we may see exposed rock, which will make this route more difficult. A sad sign of the times. This is the most common way to access Engineer Col and the North Shoulder of Tasman. It’s also the recommended descent route, but beware of the cornice that sometimes form on the summit of Lendenfeld.

11.113 11.113Aurora Australis, III,3,3 III,3,3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Gain the large snow shelf left of Hamilton-Berry Rib by a short rock/mixed step. Ascend to the top left end of the snow shelf through a mixed gully to the summit ice cap.

11.114 11.114North Gully, III,3+ III,3+ 0m
0

Follow the chimney immediately left of Hamilton-Berry Rib, or mixed ground either side of the gully. Six rope lengths to the snowfield.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
11.115 11.115Hamilton-Berry Rib, III,4,3+ III,4,3+ 0m
0

The bottom 200m provides steep, sound climbing up to grade 14. The rib then slowly relents to form a ‘Giant’s Staircase’. A good, classic route.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
 Midsummer Muntaneering, III,3+,15,4+ III,3+,15,4+ 0m
0

Probable new route between Hamilton Berry rib and NW rib.
This rock route takes the right hand visual profile as seen from Pioneer Hut.
Start up snow just left of bottom of rib and cut onto rock at any convenience. Follow the rib traversing along pinnacles, chevals, loose sections, until the obvious black triangular wall is attained.
Then traverse a rising ledge/ramp up the black wall from left to right. Finish straight up wide cracks or shallow chimney (crux 15). The route then merges with the upper section of the Hamilton Berry rib.
This is a challenging and interesting mountaineering route which requires some care, however it is not technical rock climb.

  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
  • Trad
11.116 11.116North West Couloir, III,3,3 III,3,3 0m
0

Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack snow/ice later in summer, making rockfall almost constant.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack ice later in summer.
11.117 11.117North West Rib, III,4,3+ III,4,3+ 0m
1.02
  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Parallels the Hamilton-Berry Rib, with good climbing on slabs and ribs of excellent rock.
11.118 11.118Adventure Philosophy, IV,4+ IV,4+ 0m
0

Start up the gully on the left-hand side of the face until a ramp system is reached. Follow the ramp right until near the middle, then climb straight up to the summit. A few grade 13-14 pitches.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
11.119 11.119The Mutant, IV,6,6+ IV,6,6+ 0m
0

This is the striking five pitch chimney in the middle of the face. In summer this is a great rock climb on a sunny face; in winter and spring it provides classic mixed and ice climbing with good rock protection. The second ascent team used a small amount of aid on the crux pitch, due to melting ice. From the top of the chimney, five more pitches take you to the summit. 9 pitches.
Tim Robinson, Allan Uren, Julian White, Nov 2007

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 6
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 6+
  • Trad
 The Fiend, 22,III,7 22,III,7 125m
3

Start 10m right of The Mutant. Starts on less solid rock but the rock becomes very good where you need it to be. The second and third pitches are on bomber granite-like rock with sandpaper texture which climbs just as good as it looks.

  • P1
  • 20
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 7
  • 40m
  • Trad

Follow easy ground weaving up to a roof/overhanging flake, place gear under the roof and follow the flake around and up-build belay here.

  • P2
  • 22
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 7
  • 45m
  • Trad

Climb right off the belay #5/6 cam useful here or climb 5m lay back off-width in unprotected to good pro, follow the crack up and right till you reach the slab and build a belay on the left (used a horn and a few cams)

  • P3
  • 18
  • 40m
  • Trad

Work your way up and left follow the natural flow of the climb and belay on a horn and nut or go to ledge and build a belay easy ground takes you to the summit from here.
11.120 11.120West Face Direct, IV,5+,16,4 IV,5+,16,4 0m
1.02

A hard climb on excellent rock (sustained grade 15-16), commencing to the right of The Mutant chimney. ‘Similar to, but harder than the South Face of Hicks’ – Ken Hyslop.

  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Technical) 5+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
11.121 11.121Allen-Williams, IV,5 IV,5 0m
0

Head up the gully to the right of the West Face Direct route until you can access a line that leads to a ledge system through the prominent arête. Once on the face proper, continue up two more pitches to join the Direct.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
11.122 11.122South West Ridge, III,2,2 III,2,2 0m
0

This ridge is usually used when traversing Lendenfeld en route to Tasman. Between the summit and the col the ridge is straightforward. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Straightforward, but slightly threatened by avalanches off Mt Tasman. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off.

Images

Comments
Gomez
content_editor administrator

This is an editor only function for now, let us know where The Fiend should slot in and we'll do the reorder.

Fri, 18/10/2024 - 18:53 Permalink
Peter Dickson

Thanks Simon I've been unblocked from ClimbNZ and can now post routes again using the link buttons you mentioned that oddly were never there until today. It's a pity this climb didn't make into Rob Frosts Mt Cook guidebook, however I left the direct start of it you to claim for yourself, it's a separate climb in itself and looks like some fun route to climb in rock shoes.

Wed, 01/09/2021 - 13:16 Permalink
Peter Dickson

I'Il post the route pics on Facebook, because I can't get any links or clicks to work on this ClimbNZ page and haven't been able to for all of 10 years. In fact I was only given access to log into this site again in the last year or two. I can post messages but are denied access to posting anything starting new messages and reporting new routes.
My Facebook name is Peter Dickson

Tue, 31/08/2021 - 16:16 Permalink
cragrat
content_editor

Hi Peter
Under the picture at the top on left are a couple of buttons. Add a Place or Add a route. Click add a route. This adds a "child" to the parent ( in This case Lendenfeld). Fill in the blurb. Save. Afterwards you will need to put it in the right order as new children are put at bottom of the list. To do that go to the Parent ( Lendenfeld) above the picture and click on "children". You can drag them into order by the + on left. It is also possible to add a route here without going through the previous step. Make sure you save child order.

Mon, 30/08/2021 - 21:38 Permalink
Peter Dickson

Can you do it for me Simon, I don't have the nounce.

Tue, 31/08/2021 - 15:49 Permalink
Peter Dickson

route name is "Midsomer Muntaneering"

Tue, 28/02/2012 - 11:16 Permalink
Peter Dickson

Probable new route between HB rib and NW rib.

This rock route takes the right hand visual profile as seen from Pioneer Hut.

Start up snow just left of bottom of rib and cut onto rock at any convenience. Follow the rib traversing along pinnacles, chevals, loose sections, until the obvious black triangular wall is attained. Traverse a rising ledge/ramp up the black wall from left to right. Finish straight up wide cracks or shallow chimney (crux 15). The route then merges with the upper section of the Hamilton Berry rib.

This is a challenging and interesting mountaineering route which requires some care, however it is not technical rock climb.

Alpine grade 4. Peter K-D, Lisa Wynne, December 2011

Thu, 12/01/2012 - 11:54 Permalink
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palman
Photo by Clayton Garbes
UUID
 
d9f3ffc2-10bf-4cb2-9349-fbc11f4ec8a5