Main Bluffs and Eagle Rock

(17 routes)

Place info

Main Bluffs and Eagle Rock

(17 routes)

Borland Bluffs is the general term for the complex series of cliffs which exist on the north facing slopes below point 1498 off Eldrig Peak.

North
Aspect
45min
Walk in
1016m
Altitude

Map, Topo

Type:

Crag

Aspect:

North

Altitude:

1016m

Borland Bluffs is the general term for the complex series of cliffs which exist on the north facing slopes below point 1498 off Eldrig Peak.

Access:

Find your way to the Borland Lodge. Mark the odometer at the gate into the park and drive 9.5 km along the dirt road. Park at pylon #89. Eagle Rock and the Upper Bluffs should be visible from the road. Follow cairns towards the creek and into the forest on the true left. Then climb the spur (and tape) next to the creek before veering right away from the creek. Continue steeply on taped trail passing most difficulties on the left. A fixed rope leads onto the rocky ridge. It's another 10 minutes to the cliffs.

There is space for 2 tents on "Puke Point" and the Borland Bivvy sleeps 5-6 people (four comfortably).
The cliffs are a stones throw from the bivvy and Puke Point.

Walk time:

45min

NZMS260:

C44 768 809

Topo50:

CE07 668 188

Reference	Name	Grade	Quality	Length		Comments
F	The Finger	16	0			2
	This climb ascend the obvious crack systems on the low angled face of The Finger. It can be done in one long pitch or broken in two below the true summit. It's an adventurous route with good gear. Crack climbing skills are required or up the grade by 2. The obvious finger looking thing above Eagle Rock Steve Skelton, Shana Payne, Keith Brown, 2012, Ground Up
	The Beak Project		0
	Open Project. The obvious flake feature on the arete of Eagle Rock has had several attempts. Good gear throughout. Very physical climbing!
	Cuz, It's Fuzzy	19	0	50m	1
	Fuzz Wall is around and up from Feature Face. It's the first, aptly named, fuzzy face with several crack lines. Cuz, It's Fuzzy attacks the clean, white face crack visible from the ground. From the ground, the upper climbing appears to go through a vertical lawn of lichen, but once on the wall is enjoyable. Continue out right to a grassy ledge and rings. A full value pitch. Clip the bolt off the deck and head left to first cam placement (crux). Then fire up to the enjoyable face crack. Continue through crack systems moving right as the angle eases to a grassy ledge with rings. Steve Skelton, Danny Murphy, 2015 : Ground Up.
	Furry Little Critters	20 ,18	2.01	61m	6
	P1, 30m, Grade 20. 15mtrs to the left of Feature Face. Climb broken face to gain obvious hand crack. Step right to next crack. Save big gear to the end. DBA P2, 31m, Grade 18, 6Bolts plus gear. From anchor step left and climb through dihedral and then up the prow to DBA. Jimmy Finlayson 1.11.2015P2 Jimmy Finlayson 2.05.16
	Feature Face	21	3
	3 Pitches. Feature Faceoffers sustained, technical face climbing on awesome features up to the highest point of the wall. Now fully bolted, the route originally climbed a flake which has since fallen off. Subsequently there are two starts, the left is up an awkward crack, the right is one face move at grade 24. P1: 17. For a good warm up, lie back the wide crack past two bolts before gaining good feet out right at the third bolt. continue through nice features to a ring anchor below the roof flake. Otherwise start the face direct past three bolts and a 24 crux (FFA Troy Mattingly, Feb 2014). P2: Awesome, sustained face climbing! Make a long, delicate move past the first bolt to gain the roof flake. Crank on through past crimps and slopers, through continuously interesting and delicate climbing. Keep your cool to the belay at a tussocky ledge. 21. P3: Easier climbing past several bolts to cruxy move (18). A single bolt exists on top of the formation for belay. (18). Decent: Rap from the second pitch. Otherwise, to access the upper bluffs walk down to the north, then west across tussocky terrain to the westerly ridge. A good sport link is to continue up equilibrium. Follow the gully down to the east, climbers left to base. The obvious bolted face 100m from camp towards Eagle Rock. Steve Skelton, Shana Payne, 2012. 3rd pitch, Steve Skelton, Keith Brown 2014. Direct, Troy Mattingley, 2014
	The Bishop	19 ,19	2.01	50m	1
	Obvious zigzag crack left of Roaring Forties. Apparently there are some face holds. Rings. Clip first bolt off the belay. Then it's an adventure climb following discontinuous cracks, generally tending rightward to chain anchor. Double set of cams and a #5. Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.Second Pitch, Steve Skelton, Danny Murphy 2015 : Ground Up.
	Roaring Forties	21	2.01
	Can be climbed in two long pitches. Both pitches probably grade 20/21 P1: ~40m Climb straight up face left of Myriad (mix of bolts and gear) near the top of the pitch tend left to bolted anchors. P2: 50m Sublime climbing with great variation. Step left and climb through small roof then work your way up the face till you gain the arete. Climb the arete or the face just to the left of the arete to the DBA at top You can rap off these bolts straight down First Blood The original route. Starts at bolt under roof left of Myriad. 3 or 4 pitches. Murry Judge, Andy Macfarelane, Circa 1990's
M	Myriad	22	3	50m	5
	Amazing climbing on solid rock with varied styles. Originally climbed up the crack, then out to Roaring Forties, the FA team returned to continue up the continuing corner, ground up drill in hand. A single rack of cams is required. Climb fixed line to belay in a tree at the base of a wide crack. P1 : Belay off tree, atop stripped rock below obvious corner crack. Follow off-width crack to small rooflet, then into finger crack. Soak it up through stunning moves until crack angles out left. Here you can bail out left to rings for a stunning grad 17 pitch. Otherwise, continue up corner feature, bridging past bolts and a few gear placements. Move out R onto face and paste yourself to the rock through the delicate crux. Hang on till the rings. 22. P2 : Take the crack directly above. When the crack ends, load it up with gear and step L to a runnel and a bolt. Continue up to ledge and a trad anchor. 21. P3 : (First Dud) Moderate climbing past a few pitons to summit. 14. Borland's flagship route. The first pitch involves 50m of varied and sustained quality crack and slab climbing on excellent rock. The recent addition of rings at the top of the Myriad crack allows for an excellent grade 17 crack climb (Escape from Myriad 17) Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 Ground Up
I2	Invol2ver	26	3	28m	8
	Superb techy climbing on wall between Involver and First Blood. Troy Mattingley, Feb 2014
I	Involver	25	3	28m	7
	The arete between Myriad and First Blood. Sustained technical, [involved] granite wall climbing at its finest! Note that this route really is 28m long. You need a 60m rope to get down, don't try with a 50. Kester Brown, Feb 2014
FB	First Blood	21	1.02			1
	P1 : Up crack, through overlap to bolt, then run it out to 2BB. 18 P2 : Excellent face climbing past several bolts to Rings. 21 P3 : Easier climbing past 1 bolt to summit. 15 Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.
D	Diagnolator	20	0
	P1 : L tending crack to soft white flake. Then get into the DIAGNOLATOR! Trad belay. 20 P2 : Up R tending flake, to weakness. Follow R facing crack to half way, then step L to orange patina face. Run it out to the chains! 20 R. Face crack heaven! Navigate your way through discontinuous cracks straight up the face. Spicy finish! R for DangeR. Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, 2012
FB PII	First Blood Part II	19	2.01		1
	P1 : Climb the obvious crack to trad anchor in cave. P2 : Up R past 1 Bolt. Stay true to ridge past some beautiful wind polished rock. High on the Upper Bluff. A varied and fun climb that keeps ya smiling. Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.
JR	Joyride	20	3	20m	1
	Climbs cracks in beautiful orange rock to rings. A must do! cams to #1 and doubles in finger sizes would be handy. Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, March 2014
	Esoteric	21	1.02	40m	11
	adjective : intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest. Starts on loose ground to gain first bolt. The climbing then weaves its way across dykes and patinas to the top. Rings. Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, March 2014
	Sweet Fist Crack	19	1.02	20m	1
	Walk down track from Bivi for 5 minutes. Just before you veer right down a slippery slope, turn left instead. Follow orange tape west on rough track, cross stream. Walk up hill for 50mtrs or so. Climb past 1 bolt to gain sweet gain fist crack. Rap off tree at top. Jimmy Finlayson. 31.10.2015. Ground up.
	Equilibrium	18	3	25m	9
	Located in the Upper Bluffs, below a roof capped wall is this gem of a sport climb. To the left of Diagnolator, find a large pillar leaning against the wall. Chimney up this on climbers right to grassy belay. Start climbing to the right of the bolts, then follow your equilibrium to the left. Rings are on good ledge below the orange rock. Second pitch to come... Steve Skelton, Ben Dare, April 2016