
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Edit link | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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F | The Finger | 16 |
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This climb ascend the obvious crack systems on the low angled face of The
Finger. It can be done in one long pitch or broken in two below the true
summit. It's an adventurous route with good gear. Crack climbing skills are
required or up the grade by 2.
Steve Skelton, Shana Payne, Keith Brown, 2012, Ground Up
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The Beak Project |
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Open Project. The obvious flake feature on the arete of Eagle Rock has had several attempts. Good gear throughout. Very physical climbing!
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Cuz, It's Fuzzy | 19 | 50m |
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Fuzz Wall is around and up from Feature Face. It's the first, aptly named,
fuzzy face with several crack lines. Cuz, It's Fuzzy attacks the clean, white
face crack visible from the ground. From the ground, the upper climbing
appears to go through a vertical lawn of lichen, but once on the wall is
enjoyable. Continue out right to a grassy ledge and rings. A full value
pitch.
Steve Skelton, Danny Murphy, 2015 : Ground Up.
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Furry Little Critters | 20 ,18 | 61m |
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P1, 30m, Grade 20. 15mtrs to the left of Feature Face. Climb broken face to gain obvious hand crack. Step right to next crack. Save big gear to the end. DBA
Jimmy Finlayson 1.11.2015
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Feature Face | 21 |
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3 Pitches. Feature Faceoffers sustained, technical face climbing on awesome
features up to the highest point of the wall. Now fully bolted, the route
originally climbed a flake which has since fallen off. Subsequently there are
two starts, the left is up an awkward crack, the right is one face move at
grade 24.
P1: 17. For a good warm up, lie back the wide crack past two bolts before
gaining good feet out right at the third bolt. continue through nice features
to a ring anchor below the roof flake. Otherwise start the face direct past
three bolts and a 24 crux (FFA Troy Mattingly, Feb 2014).
P2: Awesome, sustained face climbing! Make a long, delicate move past the
first bolt to gain the roof flake. Crank on through past crimps and slopers,
through continuously interesting and delicate climbing. Keep your cool to the
belay at a tussocky ledge. 21.
P3: Easier climbing past several bolts to cruxy move (18). A single bolt
exists on top of the formation for belay. (18).
Decent: Rap from the second pitch. Otherwise, to access the upper bluffs walk
down to the north, then west across tussocky terrain to the westerly ridge. A
good sport link is to continue up equilibrium. Follow the gully down to the
east, climbers left to base.
Steve Skelton, Shana Payne, 2012.
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The Bishop | 19 ,19 | 50m |
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Obvious zigzag crack left of Roaring Forties. Apparently there are some face holds. Rings.
Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.
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Roaring Forties | 21 |
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Can be climbed in two long pitches. Both pitches probably grade 20/21
P1: ~40m Climb straight up face left of Myriad (mix of bolts and gear) near
the top of the pitch tend left to bolted anchors.
P2: 50m Sublime climbing with great variation. Step left and climb through
small roof then work your way up the face till you gain the arete. Climb the
arete or the face just to the left of the arete to the DBA at top
You can rap off these bolts straight down First Blood
Murry Judge, Andy Macfarelane, Circa 1990's
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M | Myriad | 22 | 50m |
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Amazing climbing on solid rock with varied styles. Originally climbed up the
crack, then out to Roaring Forties, the FA team returned to continue up the
continuing corner, ground up drill in hand. A single rack of cams is
required.
Climb fixed line to belay in a tree at the base of a wide crack.
P1 : Belay off tree, atop stripped rock below obvious corner crack. Follow
off-width crack to small rooflet, then into finger crack. Soak it up through
stunning moves until crack angles out left. Here you can bail out left to
rings for a stunning grad 17 pitch. Otherwise, continue up corner feature,
bridging past bolts and a few gear placements. Move out R onto face and paste
yourself to the rock through the delicate crux. Hang on till the rings. 22.
P2 : Take the crack directly above. When the crack ends, load it up with gear
and step L to a runnel and a bolt. Continue up to ledge and a trad anchor.
21.
P3 : (First Dud) Moderate climbing past a few pitons to summit. 14.
Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 Ground Up
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I2 | Invol2ver | 26 | 28m |
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Superb techy climbing on wall between Involver and First Blood.
Troy Mattingley, Feb 2014
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I | Involver | 25 | 28m |
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The arete between Myriad and First Blood. Sustained technical, [involved] granite wall climbing at its finest!
Note that this route really is 28m long. You need a 60m rope to get down, don't try with a 50.
Kester Brown, Feb 2014
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FB | First Blood | 21 |
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P1 : Up crack, through overlap to bolt, then run it out to 2BB. 18
P2 : Excellent face climbing past several bolts to Rings. 21
P3 : Easier climbing past 1 bolt to summit. 15
Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.
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D | Diagnolator | 20 |
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P1 : L tending crack to soft white flake. Then get into the DIAGNOLATOR! Trad
belay. 20
P2 : Up R tending flake, to weakness. Follow R facing crack to half way, then
step L to orange patina face. Run it out to the chains! 20 R.
Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, 2012
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FB PII | First Blood Part II | 19 |
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P1 : Climb the obvious crack to trad anchor in cave.
P2 : Up R past 1 Bolt. Stay true to ridge past some beautiful wind polished
rock.
Steve Skelton, Reese Doyle, 2010 : Ground Up.
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JR | Joyride | 20 | 20m |
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Climbs cracks in beautiful orange rock to rings. A must do! cams to #1 and doubles in finger sizes would be handy.
Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, March 2014
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Esoteric | 21 | 40m |
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adjective : intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest.
Starts on loose ground to gain first bolt. The climbing then weaves its way across dykes and patinas to the top. Rings.
Steve Skelton, Keith Brown, March 2014
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Sweet Fist Crack | 19 | 20m |
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Walk down track from Bivi for 5 minutes. Just before you veer right down a slippery slope, turn left instead. Follow orange tape west on rough track, cross stream. Walk up hill for 50mtrs or so. Climb past 1 bolt to gain sweet gain fist crack. Rap off tree at top.
Jimmy Finlayson. 31.10.2015. Ground up.
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Equilibrium | 18 | 25m |
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Located in the Upper Bluffs, below a roof capped wall is this gem of a sport
climb. To the left of Diagnolator, find a large pillar leaning against the
wall. Chimney up this on climbers right to grassy belay. Start climbing to
the right of the bolts, then follow your equilibrium to the left. Rings are
on good ledge below the orange rock.
Second pitch to come...
Steve Skelton, Ben Dare, April 2016
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Places
Type | Title | Edit link |
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Face (Alpine) | Puke Wall (0 routes) | |
Face (Alpine) | Lower Bluff (0 routes) | |
Face (Alpine) | Feature Wall (0 routes) |