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Borland Bluffs and Satellites

Type
Altitude
1016m
Part of

Borland Bluffs is the general term for the complex of cliffs which exist on the north facing slopes below pt 1498 off Eldrig Peak and west of the gully which separates it from the Eagle Rock area (below pt 1269). It has a high density of quality climbing in an outstanding temperate beech forest environment.

Image
Walktime
45min
Aspect
North
Lat/lon
POINT (167.430525 -45.748001)
Topo50
CE07 668 188
Access

9.5 km west of the park entrance along the Borland Road park at pylon #89. Eagle Rock and the Upper Bluffs should be visible from the road. Walk towards the creek and then quickly into the forest on the true left. Hike on a well-taped, although steep track through a friendly beech forest. Eventually the leads a fixed line onto the rocky ridge. It's another 10 minutes to the base of the Borland Bluffs.
There is space for 2 tents on "Puke Point" and the ‘Reese’s Bivvy’ sleeps 5-6 people (four comfortably).
The cliffs are a stone’s throw from the Reese’s bivvy and Puke Point.

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Places

Type Name
Face Puke Wall
Face Lower Bluff
Face Feature Wall
Face West Main

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
F FThe Finger, 16 16
0

This climb ascend the obvious crack systems on the low angled face of The
Finger. It can be done in one long pitch or broken in two below the true
summit. It's an adventurous route with good gear. Crack climbing skills are
required or up the grade by 2.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

The obvious finger looking thing above Eagle Rock


 Stone Road, 16 16 40m 3
1.02

This striking quartz ladder hides around the corner, on Falcons Nook crag, 5-10 min up and left of Kea Dome (just below the ridge and Eldrig 'beach'). First climbed on all gear by John McCartney and Andy Macfarlane in the 90's, but unrecorded, it was rediscovered by Paula and Ruari Macfarlane in 2020. Believing it was unclimbed, they cleaned, climbed and named it, including the P2 crack, and added three bolts to keep pro reasonable enough to encourage climbing, unaware of it's history! Less than a month later, an old slide was unearthed that showed John McCartney leading the dyke many years prior, labelled "Stone Road, 16". John was contacted and suggested the bolts stay in. Grade is old school. Gear to hand size plus a big cam for the first pod


  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Up obvious white dike then cracks to DBA on tussock ledge.


  • P2
  • 13
  • 15m
  • Trad

Optional, only a short section of technical climbing. Scramble up right, then up short, sharp but inviting fist crack. Continue up to build a gear anchor at ledge below the ridge. Walk off to left. Optional finish via the cracked prow to right.


 The Beak Project
0

  • P1

Open Project. The obvious flake feature on the arete of Eagle Rock has had several attempts. Good gear throughout. Very physical climbing!


 Cuz, It's Fuzzy, 19 19 50m 1
0

Fuzz Wall is around and up from Feature Face. It's the first, aptly named,
fuzzy face with several crack lines. Cuz, It's Fuzzy attacks the clean, white
face crack visible from the ground. From the ground, the upper climbing
appears to go through a vertical lawn of lichen, but once on the wall is
enjoyable. Continue out right to a grassy ledge and rings. A full value
pitch.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 50m
  • 1

Clip the bolt off the deck and head left to first cam placement (crux). Then fire up to the enjoyable face crack. Continue through crack systems moving right as the angle eases to a grassy ledge with rings.


 Furry Little Critters, 20 20 61m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • Trad

P1, 30m, Grade 20. 15mtrs to the left of Feature Face. Climb broken face to gain obvious hand crack. Step right to next crack. Save big gear to the end. DBA


  • P2
  • 18
  • 31m
  • 6

P2, 31m, Grade 18, 6Bolts plus gear. From anchor step left and climb through dihedral and then up the prow to DBA.


 Shaggy, 20 20 35m 1
0

Located on Fuzz Wall. Just right of 'Cuz, its Fuzzy' is a steep, L facing corner. Climb up towards this, clipping first bolt of "Cuz...". Before entering the corner, step right and up crack through series of small steppy roofs through steep ground, disappearing over the lip to the right of a bush. Follow your nose up buttress with less gear above, to the DBA of "Cuz..." on a ledge near the arete directly above.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 35m
  • 1
  • Trad

 Fearless Fantasies, 21 21 50m 4
3

  • P1
  • 21
  • 50m
  • 4
  • Trad

Classic trad test piece, bold runouts, solid gear. Beware of placements with weak surface layer, get em in deep and hard. Double ropes, double rack of cams to hand size. Lots of large wires, small cams and RPs. Start 10m left of Feature Face. Climb past 4 bolts, continue straight up o R leaning crack, punch to large undercling (don't place behind it). Continue up and left to orange rock below right end of rooflet, then weave straight up to anchors above lip. A memorable 50m. Can climb FLC or FF to to top.


 Feature Face, 21 21 60m 10
3

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 10

The obvious bolted face 100m from camp towards Eagle Rock offers sustained, technical face climbing on awesome features up to the highest point of the wall. The route originally climbed a flake which has since fallen off. For a good warm up, lie back the wide crack past two bolts before gaining good feet out right at the third bolt. continue through nice features to a ring anchor below the roof flake. Otherwise start the face direct past three bolts and a 24 crux (FA Troy Mattingley, February 2014).


  • P2
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 10

Awesome, sustained face climbing! Make a long, delicate move past the first bolt to gain the roof flake. Crank on through past crimps and slopers, through continuously interesting and delicate climbing. Keep your cool to the belay at a tussocky ledge. 21.


  • P3
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 10

Easier climbing past several bolts to cruxy move (18). A single bolt exists on top of the formation for belay. Descent: Rap from the second pitch. Otherwise, to access the upper bluffs walk down to the north, then west across tussocky terrain to the westerly ridge. A good sport link is to continue up equilibrium. Follow the gully down to the east, climbers left to base.


 The Bishop, 19 19 50m 1
2.01

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Obvious zigzag crack left of Roaring Forties. Apparently there are some face holds. Rings.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 50m
  • 1

Clip first bolt off the belay. Then it's an adventure climb following discontinuous cracks, generally tending rightward to chain anchor. Double set of cams and a #5.


 Roaring Forties, 21 21 90m 10
2.01

  • P1
  • 21
  • 40m
  • 10
  • Trad

Best climbed as two long pitches (original route was 3–4 pitches). Climb straight up face left of Myriad (mix of bolts and gear) near the top of the pitch tend left to bolted anchors.


  • P2
  • 21
  • 50m
  • 10
  • Trad

Sublime climbing with great variation. Step left and climb through small roof then work your way up the face till you gain the arete. Climb the arete or the face just to the left of the arete to the DBA at top. You can rap off these bolts straight down First Blood


M MMyriad, 22 22 50m 5
3

Amazing climbing on solid rock with varied styles. Originally climbed up the
crack, then out to Roaring Forties, the FA team returned to continue up the
continuing corner, ground up drill in hand. A single rack of cams is
required.
Climb fixed line to belay in a tree at the base of a wide crack.
P1 : Belay off tree, atop stripped rock below obvious corner crack. Follow
off-width crack to small rooflet, then into finger crack. Soak it up through
stunning moves until crack angles out left. Here you can bail out left to
rings for a stunning grad 17 pitch. Otherwise, continue up corner feature,
bridging past bolts and a few gear placements. Move out R onto face and paste
yourself to the rock through the delicate crux. Hang on till the rings. 22.
P2 : Take the crack directly above. When the crack ends, load it up with gear
and step L to a runnel and a bolt. Continue up to ledge and a trad anchor.
21.
P3 : (First Dud) Moderate climbing past a few pitons to summit. 14.


  • P1
  • 22
  • 50m
  • 5
  • Trad

Borland's flagship route. The first pitch involves 50m of varied and sustained quality crack and slab climbing on excellent rock. The recent addition of rings at the top of the Myriad crack allows for an excellent grade 17 crack climb (Escape from Myriad 17)


I2 I2Invol2ver, 26 26 28m 8
3

  • P1
  • 26
  • 28m
  • 8

Superb techy climbing on wall between Involver and First Blood.


I IInvolver, 25 25 28m 7
3

  • P1
  • 25
  • 28m
  • 7

The arete between Myriad and First Blood. Sustained technical, [involved] granite wall climbing at its finest! Note that this route really is 28m long. You need a 60m rope to get down, don't try with a 50.


FB FBFirst Blood, 21 21 60m 10
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Climbed ground up on the first ascent. Up crack, through overlap to bolt, then run it out to 2BB.


  • P2
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 10

Excellent face climbing past several bolts to Rings.


  • P3
  • 15
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Easier climbing past 1 bolt to summit.


D DDiagnolator, 20 20
0

P1 : L tending crack to soft white flake. Then get into the DIAGNOLATOR! Trad
belay. 20
P2 : Up R tending flake, to weakness. Follow R facing crack to half way, then
step L to orange patina face. Run it out to the chains! 20 R.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Face crack heaven! Navigate your way through discontinuous cracks straight up the face. Spicy finish! R for DangeR.


FB PII FB PIIFirst Blood Part II, 19 19 1
2.01

P1 : Climb the obvious crack to trad anchor in cave.
P2 : Up R past 1 Bolt. Stay true to ridge past some beautiful wind polished
rock.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 1
  • Trad

High on the Upper Bluff. A varied and fun climb that keeps ya smiling.


JR JRJoyride, 20 20 20m 1
3

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Climbs cracks in beautiful orange rock to rings. A must do! cams to #1 and doubles in finger sizes would be handy.


 Esoteric, 21 21 40m 11
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 40m
  • 11

adjective : intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest. Starts on loose ground to gain first bolt. The climbing then weaves its way across dykes and patinas to the top. Rings.


 Sweet Fist Crack, 19 19 20m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Walk down track from Bivi for 5 minutes. Just before you veer right down a slippery slope, turn left instead. Follow orange tape west on rough track, cross stream. Walk up hill for 50mtrs or so. Climb past 1 bolt to gain sweet gain fist crack. Rap off tree at top.


 Equilibrium, 18 18 25m 9
3

Located in the Upper Bluffs, below a roof capped wall is this gem of a sport
climb. To the left of Diagnolator, find a large pillar leaning against the
wall. Chimney up this on climbers right to grassy belay. Start climbing to
the right of the bolts, then follow your equilibrium to the left. Rings are
on good ledge below the orange rock.
Second pitch to come...


  • P1
  • 18
  • 25m
  • 9

 DNA, 15 15 78m 1
0

Old school lives, on this somewhat adventurous route across the slabs of Kea Dome. Flaring cracks spit out nuts; for a reasonable experience bring a full set of cams.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 33m
  • Trad

Start on the slabs to the right of the toe of Kea Dome. Wander up and left (sparse gear) to a steeper crux above gear. Enjoy (and sling?) the chickenheads, and the final left trending groove to DBA just right of the broad arete. Note: If abseiling/lowering, knot end(s) of your rope and trend diagonally for the higher ground to climbers right (alternately, easily downclimb the bottom of the slab).


  • P2
  • 15
  • 45m
  • 1
  • Trad

Follow crack left to steep wall (1b), and continue up cracks left; then right, to their end on a low angle slab. Walk left across a foot ledge to excavate a gear belay in a crack by the tussock spur to the left. Descent: scramble steeply off down spur then right across a gully.


 Tender is the Night, 20 20 25m 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Starts up pinnacle to steep crack, from left side of treed ledge. Tree anchor for belayer. Access via P1 Sidewinder, or by scrambling up to ledge from left. Crack to face climb, with steep burly laybacking and big moves, giving way to beautiful, delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the DBA (shared with Sidewinder).. Cams to BD #3, doubles finger sizes (optional second #2).


 Tender is the Night, 20 20 25m 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Starts up pinnacle to steep crack, from left side of treed ledge. Tree anchor for belayer. Access via P1 Sidewinder, or by scrambling up to ledge from left. Crack to face climb, with steep burly laybacking and big moves, giving way to beautiful, delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the DBA (shared with Sidewinder).. Cams to BD #3, doubles finger sizes (optional second #2).


 Tender is the Night, 20 20 25m 3
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 3
  • Trad

Starts up pinnacle to steep crack, from left side of treed ledge. Tree anchor for belayer. Access via P1 Sidewinder, or by scrambling up to ledge from left. Crack to face climb, with steep burly laybacking and big moves, giving way to beautiful, delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the DBA (shared with Sidewinder).. Cams to BD #3, doubles finger sizes (optional second #2).


 Jumarnji, 20 20 32m 4
2.01

To the left of Equilibrium on the upper bluffs. Start from tree at top of fixed line. Rightwards trad crack into face climbing with bolted protection. Shared DBA with equilibrium.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 32m
  • 4
  • Trad

 Jibberjabber, 19 19 30m 4
0

Starts 3m right of the Equilibrium boulder. Climb the wide left leaning crack on trad until it peters out. Save a medium cam or two for the upper face between first two bolts.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 4
  • Trad

 Sidewinder, 17 17 67m 4
0

The arete forming the right edge of Puke wall. Approach as for Esoteric, then turn right and walk down along the base of the walls. The start is 5m past the base of the butress. Scramble 5 m P2: carry a thick rack to #2 (doubles or triples of finger-hand)
P3: carry a thin rack


  • P1
  • 17
  • 17m
  • 4

scramble 5m up a tussock gully then start climbing.


  • P2
  • 16
  • 30m
  • 2
  • Trad

Up and right past bolt, then around arete to hidden bolt, then up/just right of crest to DBA on ledge on arete.


  • P3
  • 16
  • 20m
  • Trad

Up crack then easily along arete to Esoteric DBA.


 Feature Fin
1.02

On Feature face crag, along the wall to the right of Feature Face route (maybe 15-20m). This modern route takes a steep first pitch with some memorable moves, and a more laid back second pitch up cracks and face (but with a sting at the end), on nice rock throughout. Starts with some steep bouldery moves at a crack/block feature, then arcs up left towards a roof.
Two pitches, mixed pro (P1 keep few large-ish cams for above the roof), double bolt ring anchors. (rap route). There is an optional right-hand finish to P2.
There is a tree in close proximity to P1 crux... a pain or a blessing, depending on your ideation, as it's tempting to take a perch/rest.

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