Location
Just below Mt Pleasant spur, overlooking Heathcote Valley.
Climate
Has good shelter from north-easterlies, and is pleasantly sunny in the afternoon. Take care in the summer as it can be too hot. In a southerly it generally cops it. A good winter afternoon or summer evening crag.
Climbing
Mostly crack climbing, which is perhaps now a forgotten art. However the friction is excellent and often there are good incut holds. Grading is generally quite severe at this crag. The Left Cliff has a good range of well-protected middle-grade routes, while the Right Cliff is a mix of short routes that are often soloed at each end and hard to desperate numbers in the middle.
There are only a few bolts at the crag, which are mostly old "carrot" type bolts, and as such should be treated with caution. Hopefully these will be replaced soon. Recently a few bolt anchors have been established at the top of the Left Cliff.
Descents
Descent routes are around the end of each cliff and by abseil from the new anchor stations installed at various points. For a longer session it can be worth leaving an abseil rope in place.
The crag and approaches are owned by the Christchurch City Council and forms part of the Scotts Valley Reserve. Access is open to climbers, but the land is leased to local farmers, so avoid stock when they are present.
Approaches
Drive up Mt Pleasant Road and turn into Longridge Drive. Park at the bend opposite the John Britten Reserve entrance and walk for two minutes to the north end of The Left Cliff, immediately below a power pylon, about 50 metres from the road. The Right Cliff can be reached in about ten minutes’ walk from the crest of the Summit Road, near Broadleaf Lane, or in five minutes from the Longridge Drive approach.
Places
Copied in & Topo by Grant Piper