Middle Cliff

(17 routes)

This is the smaller, north-west facing cliff to the right of the descent gully.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Uncle Fester 22
0
Just left of the patch of yellow lichen is a short thin crack. Place gear in this and perform near-impossible moves on small holds to gain the sloping wall above. Clayton Garbes, 2000.
Halloween 15
0
The left-most corner, with a blob of yellow lichen up on the left. Anchor with a long sling around a large block. Clayton Garbes, 2000.
Dog Spotter 18
0
A set of two little corners just right. Struggle up the under-cut start, then move up the corner and left into the finish of Halloween. Lindsay Main, 2003
Lichentious 18
0
The obvious right-angle corner, with an awkward exit. Lindsay Main, 1986.
Foible 20
1.02
Climb Lichentious to the niche at four metres, then step right on to the sloping ledge. Finish up the bulging crack. Good rock, gear, and moves. Alan Hill, 2000.
Muchos Cervisza 19
0
To the right is a wide scooped corner above a large detached block Climb left of the detached block, through the open corner to a ledge (crux). Then bridge up and finish up the bifurcating crack on the left wall. Anchor to a block. Grant Piper, 2000
Nervosa 22
0
Start as for Muchos Cervisza but climb the thin arching crack on the right wall of the corner. Then move left to easier climbing. Alan Hill, 2000.
Cabernet Sauvignon 23
0
Climb the right side of the detached block trending right and up the narrow ramp to a thin overhanging crack. Surmount this by climbing the face on the left to a big jug (crux), then follow a crack to the top. Grant Piper, 2000.
Sunday Roast 21
1.02
The prominent corner 4 metres right. Move left on to the semi-detached block and layback up the narrow ramp. Move right under the small overhang, then stand up using the ledge on the right. Climb the short steep crack (crux) and up easy cracks to finish. Alan Hill, 2000.
Via Ferrata 22
0
Open corner with brown rock. Protected somewhat by a low #2 cam, tiny wires, and the fixed piton. Grant Piper, 2000.
Traditional Enemies 20
0
Narrow face with a piton which is stretchy to reach. Then good climbing above on the arête with the climbing easing. You can clip the peg to the left to make it a lot safer and there’s no gear in the horizontal break. Grant Piper, 2000
Down and Dirty 16
0
Friendly-looking corner on the right, below a dying broadleaf. Good bridging with great gear. Damien Cotton, 2000
Lemming Boyz Revenge 25
0
Thin crack leaning right. Ben Gilder, 2000.
Turf War 18
0
Short corner-crack with a small overhang at the right end. Strenuous struggling up the crack to finish on rounded holds. Alan Hill, 2000.
Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main from the notes of Allan Hill

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Upper Tier (3 routes)