Middle Cliff

(17 routes)

This is the smaller, north-west facing cliff to the right of the descent gully.

North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Uncle Fester 22
wire representing trad
Just left of the patch of yellow lichen is a short thin crack. Place gear in this and perform near-impossible moves on small holds to gain the sloping wall above.
Clayton Garbes, 2000
Halloween 15
The left-most corner, with a blob of yellow lichen up on the left. Anchor with a long sling around a large block. Clayton Garbes, 2000.
Dog Spotter 18
A set of two little corners just right. Struggle up the under-cut start, then move up the corner and left into the finish of Halloween. Lindsay Main, 2003
Lichentious 18
The obvious right-angle corner, with an awkward exit. Lindsay Main, 1986.
Foible 20
Climb Lichentious to the niche at four metres, then step right on to the sloping ledge. Finish up the bulging crack. Good rock, gear, and moves. Alan Hill, 2000.
Muchos Cervisza 19
To the right is a wide scooped corner above a large detached block Climb left of the detached block, through the open corner to a ledge (crux). Then bridge up and finish up the bifurcating crack on the left wall. Anchor to a block. Grant Piper, 2000
Nervosa 22
Start as for Muchos Cervisza but climb the thin arching crack on the right wall of the corner. Then move left to easier climbing. Alan Hill, 2000.
Cabernet Sauvignon 23
Climb the right side of the detached block trending right and up the narrow ramp to a thin overhanging crack. Surmount this by climbing the face on the left to a big jug (crux), then follow a crack to the top. Grant Piper, 2000.
Sunday Roast 21
The prominent corner 4 metres right. Move left on to the semi-detached block and layback up the narrow ramp. Move right under the small overhang, then stand up using the ledge on the right. Climb the short steep crack (crux) and up easy cracks to finish. Alan Hill, 2000.
Via Ferrata 22
Open corner with brown rock. Protected somewhat by a low #2 cam, tiny wires, and the fixed piton. Grant Piper, 2000.
Traditional Enemies 20
Narrow face with a piton which is stretchy to reach. Then good climbing above on the arête with the climbing easing. You can clip the peg to the left to make it a lot safer and there’s no gear in the horizontal break. Grant Piper, 2000
Down and Dirty 16
Friendly-looking corner on the right, below a dying broadleaf. Good bridging with great gear. Damien Cotton, 2000
Lemming Boyz Revenge 25
Thin crack leaning right. Ben Gilder, 2000.
Turf War 18
Short corner-crack with a small overhang at the right end. Strenuous struggling up the crack to finish on rounded holds. Alan Hill, 2000.
By Lindsay Main from the notes of Allan Hill


Type Title Link to edit content
Wall Upper Tier (3 routes)