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Middle Cliff

Type
Part of

This is the smaller, north-west facing cliff to the right of the descent gully.

Aspect
North West
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Places

Type Name Alert
Sector Upper Tier

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Uncle Fester, 22 22
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Just left of the patch of yellow lichen is a short thin crack. Place gear in this and perform near-impossible moves on small holds to gain the sloping wall above.


 Halloween, 15 15
0

The left-most corner, with a blob of yellow lichen up on the left. Anchor
with a long sling around a large block. Clayton Garbes, 2000.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

 Dog Spotter, 18 18
0

A set of two little corners just right. Struggle up the under-cut start,
then move up the corner and left into the finish of Halloween. Lindsay Main,
2003


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

 Lichentious, 18 18
0

The obvious right-angle corner, with an awkward exit. Lindsay Main, 1986.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

 Foible, 20 20
1.02

Climb Lichentious to the niche at four metres, then step right on to the
sloping ledge. Finish up the bulging crack. Good rock, gear, and moves.
Alan Hill, 2000.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Muchos Cervisza, 19 19
0

To the right is a wide scooped corner above a large detached block
Climb left of the detached block, through the open corner to a ledge (crux).
Then bridge up and finish up the bifurcating crack on the left wall. Anchor
to a block. Grant Piper, 2000


  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

 Nervosa, 22 22
0

Start as for Muchos Cervisza but climb the thin arching crack on the right
wall of the corner. Then move left to easier climbing. Alan Hill, 2000.


  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

 Cabernet Sauvignon, 23 23
0

Climb the right side of the detached block trending right and up the narrow
ramp to a thin overhanging crack. Surmount this by climbing the face on the
left to a big jug (crux), then follow a crack to the top. Grant Piper,
2000.


  • P1
  • 23
  • Trad

 Sunday Roast, 21 21
1.02

The prominent corner 4 metres right. Move left on to the semi-detached block
and layback up the narrow ramp. Move right under the small overhang, then
stand up using the ledge on the right. Climb the short steep crack (crux) and
up easy cracks to finish. Alan Hill, 2000.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

 Via Ferrata, 22 22
0

Open corner with brown rock. Protected somewhat by a low #2 cam, tiny wires,
and the fixed piton. Grant Piper, 2000.


  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

 Traditional Enemies, 20 20
0

Narrow face with a piton which is stretchy to reach. Then good climbing
above on the arête with the climbing easing. You can clip the peg to the
left to make it a lot safer and there’s no gear in the horizontal break.
Grant Piper, 2000


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Down and Dirty, 16 16
0

Friendly-looking corner on the right, below a dying broadleaf. Good bridging
with great gear. Damien Cotton, 2000


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Lemming Boyz Revenge, 25 25
0

Thin crack leaning right. Ben Gilder, 2000.


  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

 Turf War, 18 18
0

Short corner-crack with a small overhang at the right end. Strenuous
struggling up the crack to finish on rounded holds. Alan Hill, 2000.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Comments
Attribution
By Lindsay Main from the notes of Allan Hill
UUID
 
d7e39939-669f-4dd4-930c-d98757a8a5be