Right Cliff

(46 routes)

Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Right Cliff, Dead On Arrival (15) is the first corner that looks like a real climb, with Moans Coffin (14) a shorter version to the right. Neanderthal (18) is an obvious wide crack, while the very overhanging thin crack is Sheltered Childhood (24). Winters Road (21) is the sharp V-corner.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Catspaw 16
0
On the left side of the cliff are a number of short climbs which are usually soloed. The first goes through the bulge and up the thin crack.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Grunt 1 16
0
An overhanging jug crank following the wide crack.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Grunt 2 17
0
Another strenuous jug crank up the weakness on black rock.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Nitty Gritty 14
0
Steep right-facing corner with a grassy ledge.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Gritty Nitty 15
0
The shallow groove a metre right, with a tricky start, then up a slab with good holds.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Felony 11
0
Start on an arête just right and climb the weakness.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Trog 1 11
0
From a slight recess below a bulge, up over orange ledges.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Trog 2 11
0
Trog 3 13
0
The arête, starting on the wall left of Respirator.
Lindsay Main, 1977
Respirator 16
0
Steep shallow groove with tricky bridging to reach good holds at a block.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Nurg 11
0
Start a metre right in the broken groove and move up on to the edge with jugs and chickenheads.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Free Ride 13
0
A vegetated left-facing corner-crack with a bush near the top.
Lindsay Main, 1977
DoA Dead On Arrival 15 8m
1.02
On the next section of the cliff the climbs are a bit longer and are normally led. The quality and cleanness of the rock improves. Dead On Arrival is the prominent V-corner with bridging (crux) to a leaning roof. Follow the crack rightward to finish.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Tweeter 18
0
Climb the thin crack on the right wall of the corner to meet the finish of Dead On Arrival.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Ennui Extremement 15
0
Climb the short wall leftward to the arête. Step left and jam straight up through the blocks to the top.
Mike Perry, 1977
Elvis’s Pelvis 21
0
From the same start climb the lower wall through a small roof to under the overhanging arête, clip the bolt above and right of the nose, and pull up over the roof and on to the arête.
Paul Tattersall, 1987
Moan's Coffin 14 8m
0
1 wire representing trad
Prominent V-corner with a wide crack curving right past a small roof. Quite awkward.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Flake Wall 14
0
Layback the obvious flake on the left side of the smooth wall, then finish up holds above. Has been used as a descent route.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Over The Wall 20
0
Straight up the lichenous wall a metre left of Neanderthal on small holds. No protection. Completely independent of Neanderthal.
Dave Fearnley, 1982
N Neanderthal 18 12m
0
wire representing trad
The obvious crack line of varying width. Can be a grunt. There are abseil rings just over the top.
Lindsay Main, 1977
Trivial Pursuit 24
2.01
wire representing trad
Start as for Neanderthal. Place gear in the crack then venture out on the face just after the grass ledge. Climb on small edges and the left arete up the run-out face.
Derek Thatcher 2005
CG Career Girl 22 14m
2.01
Climb the bulge via the diagonal jagged hand crack to a ledge and the small left-facing corner. Protection is adequate with a small cam.
John Allen, 1979
ET Enfant Terrible 23 14m
0
Start up a groove line to the right of Career Girl, and then through a small roof and slightly left to a right-leading ramp, with protection from the climbs on either side. Reasonable protection on the top section.
John Allen, 1979
SC Sheltered Childhood 24 14m
1.02
Obvious crack test-piece with a large boulder near the base. Easy up the groove to the break, then hard climbing up the overhanging crack. Good protection, bolt anchor.
John Allen, 1979
IJ International Jetsetter 25 14m
1.02
Up the groove with yellow lichen on the left wall and into a niche under the diagonal overhang. Move left past a bolt following the roof line, then through the top edge of the overhang with difficulty. Pro adequate.
Charlie Creese, 1982
Dominion 27 14m
1.02
The arête to the right of International Jetsetter. From the niche climb past the bolt on to the upper wall. Continue up the scoop wall to top.
Dave Fearnley, 1988
WR Winters Road 21 14m
1.02
wire representing trad
A prominent V-corner with a bulge. Two rests break the climb into three sections. Move up the crack line to the break, then climb the off-width, flared groove. A varied route with good protection. Bolt anchor.
John Allen, 1979
Winter's Bone 30
2.01
wire representing trad
The steep, blank looking face between Winters Road and Gruse Power
Derek Thatcher 2016
Gruse Power 26 14m
2.01
wire representing trad
Climb the wall between Winters Road and Go on small holds with protection from small wires of dubious quality. A gripping experience.
Dave Fearnley, 1983
Go Go 23 12m
2.01
Above the nettles. The crack-line on yellow rock up the overhanging wall to a niche, then over the roof to the groove. Strenuous.
John Allen, 1979
BuT Barking Up The Wrong Tree 25 11m
1.02
Just to the right of Go on a brown wall. Hard bridging to reach the bolt, then palm off the overhang to progress up to a small wire runner. Slightly easier to the top. Very sustained.
Charlie Creese, 1981
Savage Anne 18
0
The lichenous wall left of Weathered Tomato. Either traverse in from the right or climb directly to jugs at the block edge. Up the left side of the block to gain the sloping ledge, then easier to the top. Wires under the block.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Weathered Tomato 14
0
Climb the corner mainly on the left to a small overhang, with good jugs at the flake to the right. Good protection.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
L.T
0
Thin crack with yellow lichen just right. Bouldery start to reach good holds; finish as for Weathered Tomato.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
R The Rack 28 9m
0
1 wire representing trad
Start up LT to the diagonal break, place cams on the left, lurch right on to the arête, and climb the prow with a wire for protection. An earlier, easier version, climbed by Tony Ward-Holmes, traversed right higher up.
Derek Thatcher, 2002
The Annilhilator 32
0
The right side of the arête, with a bolt for protection and some “esoteric” gear.
Derek Thatcher, 2007
Womble Brothers 16 9m
1.02
A U-shaped groove with bridging and a few large holds. Technical start. Protected in the upper part.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
C Cobweb 15 8m
0
A V-groove and crack with good protection. Nice climbing.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
WH Wreck On The Highway 18 8m
0
Goes up the concave wall. Start direct or just left to gain the crack. Then up the wall and right to a hidden jug high up on the right arête. Take care not to fall from the top or you may hit the ground. Harder if you're short.
Dave Fearnley, 1979
Sweet Jane 15
0
Three metres right. Start in a corner and bridge to a ledge, then step onto a slab. No protection.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Adolf 12 6m
0
The next climbs are 10 metres right of Cobweb, just past the descent gully. Adolf is the left-facing corner crack with grass at the start. Jam and bridge past a small block in the crack, then to the top on large holds.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Begin 17 7m
1.02
A smooth, undercut, left-facing corner. Pull through the bulge into the corner, then climb the crack to good holds at the top. Good protection.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
Grass Slide 13
0
An undercut groove with a crack. Pull up leftward into the groove and then it’s easier to the top.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Mumbo Jumbo 12
0
Ten metres right of the Right Cliff proper is a small buttress with three short easy climbs. Start a metre left of an obvious left-facing corner under a roof. Climb the wall to a protruding knob and pull up on a good hold; left to finish.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Parasite 14
0
Low-angle crack up a wall a metre left of a vegetated corner, with a long reach to a good hold.
Lindsay Main, 1976
Mandi’s Climb 15
0
A left-facing corner with a jam crack and a small roof. Bridge past the roof to finish in a groove above.
Mandi Power, 1977
Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main

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