Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Right Cliff, Dead On Arrival (15) is the first corner that looks like a real climb, with Moans Coffin (14) a shorter version to the right. Neanderthal (18) is an obvious wide crack, while the very overhanging thin crack is Sheltered Childhood (24). Winters Road (21) is the sharp V-corner.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
West
Walk time:
10 min
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| Catspaw | 16 |
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On the left side of the cliff are a number of short climbs which are usually soloed. The first goes through the bulge and up the thin crack.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Grunt 1 | 16 |
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An overhanging jug crank following the wide crack.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Grunt 2 | 17 |
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Another strenuous jug crank up the weakness on black rock.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Nitty Gritty | 14 |
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Steep right-facing corner with a grassy ledge.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Gritty Nitty | 15 |
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The shallow groove a metre right, with a tricky start, then up a slab with good holds.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Felony | 11 |
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Start on an arête just right and climb the weakness.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Trog 1 | 11 |
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From a slight recess below a bulge, up over orange ledges.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Trog 2 | 11 |
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| Trog 3 | 13 |
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The arête, starting on the wall left of Respirator.
Lindsay Main, 1977
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| Respirator | 16 |
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Steep shallow groove with tricky bridging to reach good holds at a block.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Nurg | 11 |
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Start a metre right in the broken groove and move up on to the edge with jugs and chickenheads.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Free Ride | 13 |
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A vegetated left-facing corner-crack with a bush near the top.
Lindsay Main, 1977
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| DoA | Dead On Arrival | 15 | 8m |
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On the next section of the cliff the climbs are a bit longer and are normally led. The quality and cleanness of the rock improves.
Dead On Arrival is the prominent V-corner with bridging (crux) to a leaning roof. Follow the crack rightward to finish.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Tweeter | 18 |
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Climb the thin crack on the right wall of the corner to meet the finish of Dead On Arrival.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Ennui Extremement | 15 |
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Climb the short wall leftward to the arête. Step left and jam straight up through the blocks to the top.
Mike Perry, 1977
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| Elvis’s Pelvis | 21 |
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From the same start climb the lower wall through a small roof to under the overhanging arête, clip the bolt above and right of the nose, and pull up over the roof and on to the arête.
Paul Tattersall, 1987
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| Moan's Coffin | 14 | 8m |
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1 |
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Prominent V-corner with a wide crack curving right past a small roof. Quite awkward.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Flake Wall | 14 |
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Layback the obvious flake on the left side of the smooth wall, then finish up holds above. Has been used as a descent route.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Over The Wall | 20 |
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Straight up the lichenous wall a metre left of Neanderthal on small holds. No protection. Completely independent of Neanderthal.
Dave Fearnley, 1982
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| N | Neanderthal | 18 | 12m |
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The obvious crack line of varying width. Can be a grunt. There are abseil rings just over the top.
Lindsay Main, 1977
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| Trivial Pursuit | 24 |
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Start as for Neanderthal. Place gear in the crack then venture out on the face just after the grass ledge. Climb on small edges and the left arete up the run-out face.
Derek Thatcher 2005
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| CG | Career Girl | 22 | 14m |
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Climb the bulge via the diagonal jagged hand crack to a ledge and the small left-facing corner. Protection is adequate with a small cam.
John Allen, 1979
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| ET | Enfant Terrible | 23 | 14m |
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Start up a groove line to the right of Career Girl, and then through a small roof and slightly left to a right-leading ramp, with protection from the climbs on either side. Reasonable protection on the top section.
John Allen, 1979
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| SC | Sheltered Childhood | 24 | 14m |
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Obvious crack test-piece with a large boulder near the base. Easy up the groove to the break, then hard climbing up the overhanging crack. Good protection, bolt anchor.
John Allen, 1979
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| IJ | International Jetsetter | 25 | 14m |
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Up the groove with yellow lichen on the left wall and into a niche under the diagonal overhang. Move left past a bolt following the roof line, then through the top edge of the overhang with difficulty. Pro adequate.
Charlie Creese, 1982
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| Dominion | 27 | 14m |
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The arête to the right of International Jetsetter. From the niche climb past the bolt on to the upper wall. Continue up the scoop wall to top.
Dave Fearnley, 1988
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| WR | Winters Road | 21 | 14m |
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A prominent V-corner with a bulge. Two rests break the climb into three sections. Move up the crack line to the break, then climb the off-width, flared groove. A varied route with good protection. Bolt anchor.
John Allen, 1979
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| Winter's Bone | 30 |
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The steep, blank looking face between Winters Road and Gruse Power
Derek Thatcher 2016
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| Gruse Power | 26 | 14m |
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1 | |||||
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Climb the wall between Winters Road and Go on small holds with protection from small wires of dubious quality. A gripping experience.
Dave Fearnley, 1983
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| Go | Go | 23 | 12m |
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Above the nettles. The crack-line on yellow rock up the overhanging wall to a niche, then over the roof to the groove. Strenuous.
John Allen, 1979
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| BuT | Barking Up The Wrong Tree | 25 | 11m |
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Just to the right of Go on a brown wall. Hard bridging to reach the bolt, then palm off the overhang to progress up to a small wire runner. Slightly easier to the top. Very sustained.
Charlie Creese, 1981
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| Savage Anne | 18 |
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The lichenous wall left of Weathered Tomato. Either traverse in from the right or climb directly to jugs at the block edge. Up the left side of the block to gain the sloping ledge, then easier to the top. Wires under the block.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Weathered Tomato | 14 |
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Climb the corner mainly on the left to a small overhang, with good jugs at the flake to the right. Good protection.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| L.T |
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Thin crack with yellow lichen just right. Bouldery start to reach good holds;
finish as for Weathered Tomato.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| R | The Rack | 28 | 9m |
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1 |
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Start up LT to the diagonal break, place cams on the left, lurch right on to the arête, and climb the prow with a wire for protection. An earlier, easier version, climbed by Tony Ward-Holmes, traversed right higher up.
Derek Thatcher, 2002
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| The Annilhilator | 32 |
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The right side of the arête, with a bolt for protection and some “esoteric” gear.
Derek Thatcher, 2007
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| Womble Brothers | 16 | 9m |
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A U-shaped groove with bridging and a few large holds. Technical start. Protected in the upper part.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| C | Cobweb | 15 | 8m |
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A V-groove and crack with good protection. Nice climbing.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| WH | Wreck On The Highway | 18 | 8m |
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Goes up the concave wall. Start direct or just left to gain the crack. Then up the wall and right to a hidden jug high up on the right arête. Take care not to fall from the top or you may hit the ground. Harder if you're short.
Dave Fearnley, 1979
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| Sweet Jane | 15 |
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Three metres right. Start in a corner and bridge to a ledge, then step onto a slab. No protection.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Adolf | 12 | 6m |
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The next climbs are 10 metres right of Cobweb, just past the descent gully. Adolf is the left-facing corner crack with grass at the start. Jam and bridge past a small block in the crack, then to the top on large holds.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Begin | 17 | 7m |
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A smooth, undercut, left-facing corner. Pull through the bulge into the corner, then climb the crack to good holds at the top. Good protection..
Earthquake damaged but still climable. Beware of the loose rock at the top. Maybe downgraded to 15ish. Good pro.
Bill Atkinson, 1977
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| Grass Slide | 13 |
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An undercut groove with a crack. Pull up leftward into the groove and then it’s easier to the top.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Mumbo Jumbo | 12 |
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Ten metres right of the Right Cliff proper is a small buttress with three short easy climbs. Start a metre left of an obvious left-facing corner under a roof. Climb the wall to a protruding knob and pull up on a good hold; left to finish.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Parasite | 14 |
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Low-angle crack up a wall a metre left of a vegetated corner, with a long reach to a good hold.
Lindsay Main, 1976
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| Mandi’s Climb | 15 |
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A left-facing corner with a jam crack and a small roof. Bridge past the roof to finish in a groove above.
Mandi Power, 1977
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Attribution:
By Lindsay Main
This place appears in
UUID:
4d5562d7-ee80-4daa-96a2-96c978fc2040