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Right Cliff

Type
Part of

Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Right Cliff, Dead On Arrival (15) is the first corner that looks like a real climb, with Moans Coffin (14) a shorter version to the right. Neanderthal (18) is an obvious wide crack, while the very overhanging thin crack is Sheltered Childhood (24). Winters Road (21) is the sharp V-corner.

Image
Walktime
10 min
Aspect
West
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Catspaw, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

On the left side of the cliff are a number of short climbs which are usually soloed. The first goes through the bulge and up the thin crack.


 Grunt 1, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

An overhanging jug crank following the wide crack.


 Grunt 2, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Another strenuous jug crank up the weakness on black rock.


 Nitty Gritty, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Steep right-facing corner with a grassy ledge.


 Gritty Nitty, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

The shallow groove a metre right, with a tricky start, then up a slab with good holds.


 Felony, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

Start on an arête just right and climb the weakness.


 Trog 1, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

From a slight recess below a bulge, up over orange ledges.


 Trog 2, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

 Trog 3, 13 13
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

The arête, starting on the wall left of Respirator.


 Respirator, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Steep shallow groove with tricky bridging to reach good holds at a block.


 Nurg, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

Start a metre right in the broken groove and move up on to the edge with jugs and chickenheads.


 Free Ride, 13 13
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

A vegetated left-facing corner-crack with a bush near the top.


DoA DoADead On Arrival, 15 15 8m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 8m
  • Trad

On the next section of the cliff the climbs are a bit longer and are normally led. The quality and cleanness of the rock improves. Dead On Arrival is the prominent V-corner with bridging (crux) to a leaning roof. Follow the crack rightward to finish.


 Tweeter, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Climb the thin crack on the right wall of the corner to meet the finish of Dead On Arrival.


 Ennui Extremement, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Climb the short wall leftward to the arête. Step left and jam straight up through the blocks to the top.


 Elvis’s Pelvis, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

From the same start climb the lower wall through a small roof to under the overhanging arête, clip the bolt above and right of the nose, and pull up over the roof and on to the arête.


 Moan's Coffin, 14 14 8m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 8m
  • Trad

Prominent V-corner with a wide crack curving right past a small roof. Quite awkward.


 Flake Wall, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Layback the obvious flake on the left side of the smooth wall, then finish up holds above. Has been used as a descent route.


 Over The Wall, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Straight up the lichenous wall a metre left of Neanderthal on small holds. No protection. Completely independent of Neanderthal.


N NNeanderthal, 18 18 12m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • Trad

The obvious crack line of varying width. Can be a grunt. There are abseil rings just over the top.


 Trivial Pursuit, 24 24
2.01

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

Start as for Neanderthal. Place gear in the crack then venture out on the face just after the grass ledge. Climb on small edges and the left arete up the run-out face.


CG CGCareer Girl, 22 22 14m
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 14m
  • Trad

Climb the bulge via the diagonal jagged hand crack to a ledge and the small left-facing corner. Protection is adequate with a small cam.


ET ETEnfant Terrible, 23 23 14m
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 14m
  • Trad

Start up a groove line to the right of Career Girl, and then through a small roof and slightly left to a right-leading ramp, with protection from the climbs on either side. Reasonable protection on the top section.


SC SCSheltered Childhood, 24 24 14m
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 14m
  • Trad

Obvious crack test-piece with a large boulder near the base. Easy up the groove to the break, then hard climbing up the overhanging crack. Good protection, bolt anchor.


IJ IJInternational Jetsetter, 25 25 14m
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • 14m
  • Trad

Up the groove with yellow lichen on the left wall and into a niche under the diagonal overhang. Move left past a bolt following the roof line, then through the top edge of the overhang with difficulty. Pro adequate.


 Dominion, 27 27 14m
1.02

  • P1
  • 27
  • 14m
  • Trad

The arête to the right of International Jetsetter. From the niche climb past the bolt on to the upper wall. Continue up the scoop wall to top.


WR WRWinters Road, 21 21 14m
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 14m
  • Trad

A prominent V-corner with a bulge. Two rests break the climb into three sections. Move up the crack line to the break, then climb the off-width, flared groove. A varied route with good protection. Bolt anchor.


 Winter's Bone, 30 30
2.01

  • P1
  • 30
  • Trad

The steep, blank looking face between Winters Road and Gruse Power


 Gruse Power, 26 26 14m
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 14m
  • Trad

Climb the wall between Winters Road and Go on small holds with protection from small wires of dubious quality. A gripping experience.


Go GoGo, 23 23 12m
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • 12m
  • Trad

Above the nettles. The crack-line on yellow rock up the overhanging wall to a niche, then over the roof to the groove. Strenuous.


BuT BuTBarking Up The Wrong Tree, 25 25 11m
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • 11m
  • Trad

Just to the right of Go on a brown wall. Hard bridging to reach the bolt, then palm off the overhang to progress up to a small wire runner. Slightly easier to the top. Very sustained.


 Savage Anne, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The lichenous wall left of Weathered Tomato. Either traverse in from the right or climb directly to jugs at the block edge. Up the left side of the block to gain the sloping ledge, then easier to the top. Wires under the block.


 Weathered Tomato, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Climb the corner mainly on the left to a small overhang, with good jugs at the flake to the right. Good protection.


 L.T 0m
0

  • P1
  • Trad

Thin crack with yellow lichen just right. Bouldery start to reach good holds; finish as for Weathered Tomato.


R RThe Rack, 28 28 9m
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 9m
  • Trad

Start up LT to the diagonal break, place cams on the left, lurch right on to the arête, and climb the prow with a wire for protection. An earlier, easier version, climbed by Tony Ward-Holmes, traversed right higher up.


 The Annilhilator, 32 32 1
0

  • P1
  • 32
  • 1
  • Trad

The right side of the arête, with a bolt for protection and some “esoteric” gear.


 Womble Brothers, 16 16 9m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 9m
  • Trad

A U-shaped groove with bridging and a few large holds. Technical start. Protected in the upper part.


C CCobweb, 15 15 8m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 8m
  • Trad

A V-groove and crack with good protection. Nice climbing.


WH WHWreck On The Highway, 18 18 8m
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 8m
  • Trad

Goes up the concave wall. Start direct or just left to gain the crack. Then up the wall and right to a hidden jug high up on the right arête. Take care not to fall from the top or you may hit the ground. Harder if you're short.


 Sweet Jane, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Three metres right. Start in a corner and bridge to a ledge, then step onto a slab. No protection.


 Adolf, 12 12 6m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 6m
  • Trad

The next climbs are 10 metres right of Cobweb, just past the descent gully. Adolf is the left-facing corner crack with grass at the start. Jam and bridge past a small block in the crack, then to the top on large holds.


 Begin, 17 17 7m
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 7m
  • Trad

A smooth, undercut, left-facing corner. Pull through the bulge into the corner, then climb the crack to good holds at the top. Good protection.. Earthquake damaged but still climable. Beware of the loose rock at the top. Maybe downgraded to 15ish. Good pro.


 Grass Slide, 13 13
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

An undercut groove with a crack. Pull up leftward into the groove and then it’s easier to the top.


 Mumbo Jumbo, 12 12
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

Ten metres right of the Right Cliff proper is a small buttress with three short easy climbs. Start a metre left of an obvious left-facing corner under a roof. Climb the wall to a protruding knob and pull up on a good hold; left to finish.


 Parasite, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Low-angle crack up a wall a metre left of a vegetated corner, with a long reach to a good hold.


 Mandi’s Climb, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

A left-facing corner with a jam crack and a small roof. Bridge past the roof to finish in a groove above.


Comments
Attribution
By Lindsay Main
UUID
 
4d5562d7-ee80-4daa-96a2-96c978fc2040