The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been rockfall in a number of places. THERE ARE STILL PLENTY OF LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS.! Care and good judgement is needed when climbing here.
The description, topos and routes have not yet been fully updated with regards to earthquake damage as at March 2022.
Orientation
Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Left Cliff, Right One (19) is a fairly obvious crack and corner beside an overhanging prow. Around a bit is the overhanging jam crack Blood (17), with Mike's Climb (16) a vertical crack just right. On the next section is Velvet Toes (20), a thin crack on a vertical black wall, with the finger crack Crazy Fingers (19) right a little. Adjacent is the distinctive leaning double crack of Stranger (17), and then a pair of steep cracks, Little Feat (18) and The Loom (23).
The first five routes are on a small cliff on the left. The first three start at a ledge.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Michelangelo, 21 | 21 | ||||||
A few metres left of Dog is a bulge/roof, with a thin crack through it which
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Dog, 12 | 12 | 0m | |||||
Low-angle right-facing groove on the left. Small wires. |
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Back To The Future, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Thin crack at the edge of the brown wall. Pro from wires. Bill Atkinson,
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Times Past, 16 | 16 | ||||||
A metre right - through the bulge with poor wires and up the groove. Flaky
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Gripper, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start at the base of the cliff in a chimney and climb past a bush and steeply
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Know Me Before You Judge Me, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Just long the crag a little.
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Dirge, 9 | 9 | ||||||
The broken gully just right. Steepish at the bottom, but there are large
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Scar Tissue, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start in the groove just left of Ray’s Climb. Bridge up and surmount the
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RC | RCRay's Climb, 11 | 11 | |||||
About five metres right of Dirge is a wide crack in a corner with a bulge
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Daryll's Climb, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Climb the steep crack to a bulge and layback around. There is a bolt anchor,
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Two Separate Gorillas, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Almost independent of DC. Start on the slab and place gear in the crack at
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Four-Stone Weakling, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start in the crack with grass and scranble to the change in angle, then
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Hometown Blues, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Climb the crack with a fern to a ledge, and up the overhanging crack in a
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CR | CRCrag Rat, 15 | 15 | |||||
The crack just right with good holds. Move slightly right to the ledge, then
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P | PPincer, 20 | 20 | |||||
Start a small rib and step left to the crack. Climb the steep wall with a
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Howard's Climb, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Start in a corner with yellow rock. Boulder up to the overhang then swing up
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L1 | L1Left One, 16 | 16 | |||||
The left of two cracks - deceptively steep, but jugs eventually appear. Good
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R1 | R1Right One, 19 | 19 | |||||
The crack just left of an overhanging prow. Tricky climbing on a steep wall
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Itsa, 22 | 22 | ||||||
Follow the weakness past white lichen up the overhanging wall right of the
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Henry's Climb, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Up a small pillar to the awkward mantelshelf, then follow the crack into the
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L | LLunge, 19 | 19 | |||||
The thin crack just right. From the ledge at the base up the crack which
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V | VVarmint, 14 | 14 | |||||
Start at an orange wall and jam the crack to the vegetated ledge, then move
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B | BBlood, 17 | 17 | |||||
The bulging jam crack to the Varmint ledge, taking care to avoid the Bush
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Jon's Climb, 20 | 20 | ||||||
Awkward start up the blackish groove and over the small bulge, between the
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MC | MCMike's Climb, 15 | 15 | |||||
A metre up is a hanging block - climb the thin crack to its left which widens
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Hammerhead, 15 | 15 | ||||||
Mantelshelf on to the hanging block and then bridge and jam up the groove.
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Mantelpiece, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Start below a pod with a ledge above a bulge; surmount the mantelpiece (crux
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Edge, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Climb the arête beside Mantelpiece, bridge on to the ledge, then over yellow
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OE | OEOrange Energy, 21 | 21 | |||||
Up the thin overhanging crack in a groove on brown rock until it opens out at
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By The Way, 14 | 14 | ||||||
On the left side of the vegetated gully. Clamber over the scrub at the
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Orange Toes, 16 | 16 | ||||||
3m R of Orange Energy. The curving left-facing corner, with obvious long
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A Pleasant Easterly, 17 | 17 | ||||||
About three metres right – the central of three short buttresses. Place
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Gale Force, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Between two buttresses is this obvious V-corner with vegetated ledges. Nice
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Red Meat, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Further R is a buttress with a wide crack above large stacked blocks. Scramble up over the blocks and climb the crack. Step L and up to finish.
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Born Again Carnivore, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Start just to the R. Climb blocks then up vegetated ramp R of red Meat, then
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VT | VTVelvet Toes, 20 | 20 | |||||
The next climbs are 5 metres right past a vegetated area A thin crack line on a short black wall. Start in a small recess and use
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Short Eyes, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Climb the blocks into the corner, bridge up to holds leading right. Harder
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F | FFerret, 16 | 16 | |||||
Over blocks with orange spots to the platform and corner, then bridge and
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F | FCrazy Ferret, 18 | 18 | 0m | ||||
The line where Ferret and Crazy Fingers were is now a wide double corner with reasonable small gear. Finish up right towards the top of Stranger. It might be possible for a brave climber to straighten this line up at the top at a harder grade. |
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Crazy Fingers, 20 | 20 | ||||||
From the Ferret ledge traverse right and climb the thin black crack. Rick
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Crazy Fingers Direct, 22 | 22 | ||||||
Direct start straight up the crack without using the Ferret block. There are
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Green Poultice Direct, 23 | 23 | 1 | |||||
Climb the arête right of Crazy Fingers until a diagonal thin crack leads
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Thunderbirds Are Go, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Climb the crack in the wall left of Stranger directly, joining Stranger near This climb is not gone, but the top is radically altered. The main body of the route at the bottom is unchanged by the earthquake.
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S | SStranger, 17 | 17 | |||||
Double crack slanting left with a bulge at the top. Technical, with an
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The Song Remains The Same, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Climb the arête right of Stranger, keeping to the left until about 3/4 of
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IN | INIn The Night, 22 | 22 | |||||
A classic bridging problem - the overhanging left-leaning groove starting
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Moon River, 24 | 24 | 1 | |||||
Hard climbing up the overhanging prow protecting by a very rusty bolt and
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LF | LFLittle Feat, 18 | 18 | |||||
Tricky start to the crack and corner, then past grass and a small bulge to
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TL | TLThe Loom, 23 | 23 | |||||
Climb to the ledge on Little Feat, then take the right-hand crack through
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Botanist, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Much altered during the 2005 fatal accident. Start off a block left of the
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Left Bastard, 20 | 20 | ||||||
The overhanging blocks that formed the gnarly crack have now gone.. Finish
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RB | RBRubber Bullet, 20 | 20 | |||||
The right-hand crack. Climb As previously, the main block has gone. From the
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Colossal Youth, 24 | 24 | 1 | |||||
Start at the fence. Hard climbing over the overlap, then move up and right
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Wrong Un, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Right of the fence are a number of short climbs of lesser quality, usually The black and yellow wall beside the fence to a right-facing corner. Awkward
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Flowerpot Man, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Thin moves up a seam a metre right of Wrong Un. John Allen, 1979.
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Bush, 15 | 15 | ||||||
Up the crack beside the rib and left to join Flowerpot Man. Bill Atkinson,
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Black, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Climb the crack in the groove to a vegetated ledge. Bill Atkinson, 1977.
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Slip, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Up the crack with green lichen to loose blocks at the ledge. Bill Atkinson,
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Jam, 14 | 14 | ||||||
Hand-jam practice. The short crack leading to the ledge. Bill Atkinson,
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Grebe, 12 | 12 | ||||||
Bridging and jugs around a wide crack and blocks, then up the recessed
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