Place info

Left Cliff

(59 routes)

The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Orientation
Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Left Cliff, Right One (19) is a fairly obvious crack and corner beside an overhanging prow. Around a bit is the overhanging jam crack Blood (17), with Mike's Climb (16) a vertical crack just right. On the next section is Velvet Toes (20), a thin crack on a vertical black wall, with the finger crack Crazy Fingers (19) right a little. Adjacent is the distinctive leaning double crack of Stranger (17), and then a pair of steep cracks, Little Feat (18) and The Loom (23).
The first five routes are on a small cliff on the left. The first three start at a ledge.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 5 min

    Walk in

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West

The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Orientation
Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Left Cliff, Right One (19) is a fairly obvious crack and corner beside an overhanging prow. Around a bit is the overhanging jam crack Blood (17), with Mike's Climb (16) a vertical crack just right. On the next section is Velvet Toes (20), a thin crack on a vertical black wall, with the finger crack Crazy Fingers (19) right a little. Adjacent is the distinctive leaning double crack of Stranger (17), and then a pair of steep cracks, Little Feat (18) and The Loom (23).
The first five routes are on a small cliff on the left. The first three start at a ledge.

Walk time: 
5 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
21
0
 

A few metres left of Dog is a bulge/roof, with a thin crack through it which is climbed directly. Frazer Munro, 2000.

12
0
 

Low-angle right-facing groove on the left. Small wires. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

18
0
 

Thin crack at the edge of the brown wall. Pro from wires. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

16
0
 

A metre right - through the bulge with poor wires and up the groove. Flaky rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

17
0
 

Start at the base of the cliff in a chimney and climb past a bush and steeply up on loose jugs to the crack - adequate protection. Lindsay Main, 1979.

17
0
 

Just long the crag a little.
Deceptively steep. Start just L of Dirge, climbing up and LW on the steep wall, Step right briefly back left to gain the arête with crack to finish. Better than it looks. Pete Gresham, 2005

9
0
 

The broken gully just right. Steepish at the bottom, but there are large though not necessarily solid holds.

17
0
 

Start in the groove just left of Ray’s Climb. Bridge up and surmount the bulge to gain the scooped wall; then at the low-angled loose corner move right on to the wall/arête. Adequate protection at the top and good on the lower section. Lindsay Main, 2005

RC
11
0
 

About five metres right of Dirge is a wide crack in a corner with a bulge mid-way but easy finish. Ray Begg, 1977

17
1.02
Gone
 

Climb the steep crack to a bulge and layback around. There is a bolt anchor, backed up with a long sling and/or cams. Daryll Thomson, 1977.

21
0
Gone
 

Almost independent of DC. Start on the slab and place gear in the crack at left before engaging the overhanging right-leaning crack. Lindsay Main, 2007.

17
0
 

Start in the crack with grass and scranble to the change in angle, then straight up the irregular crack with good protection and big holds. Lindsay Main, 2007.

16
0
 

Climb the crack with a fern to a ledge, and up the overhanging crack in a brown corner to top out on secure blocks. Mandi Power, 1977.

CR
15
0
 

The crack just right with good holds. Move slightly right to the ledge, then exit straight up a steep crack. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

P
20
0
 

Start a small rib and step left to the crack. Climb the steep wall with a wire, move right slightly, then up to easy ground. If you fall off and pull the wire don't land on the pointed rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

21
0
 

Start in a corner with yellow rock. Boulder up to the overhang then swing up on jugs onto the wall and easier climbing. Committing moves through the bulge with uncertain protection. John Howard, 1979.

L1
16
1.02
 

The left of two cracks - deceptively steep, but jugs eventually appear. Good protection. Double bolt anchor. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

R1
19
0
 

The crack just left of an overhanging prow. Tricky climbing on a steep wall to gain the crack, then committing moves with improving protection. Continue up easy ground to the top of the crag. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

22
0
Gone
 

Follow the weakness past white lichen up the overhanging wall right of the prow. Move left to pull over to the top of Right One. Strenuous. Adequate protection. John Allen, 1979

17
0
Gone
 

Up a small pillar to the awkward mantelshelf, then follow the crack into the gully and easy ground. Henry Mares, 1977.

L
19
0
 

The thin crack just right. From the ledge at the base up the crack which widens to fist size; over ledges into the gully. Adequate protection. Lindsay Main, 1979.

V
14
0
Gone
 

Start at an orange wall and jam the crack to the vegetated ledge, then move right to an easier crack to the top. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

B
17
1.02
Gone
 

The bulging jam crack to the Varmint ledge, taking care to avoid the Bush Lawyer. Finish to the right. Bill Atkinson 1977.

20
0
Gone
 

Awkward start up the blackish groove and over the small bulge, between the two cracks without using the crack of Mike's Climb. Adequate pro. Jon Chester 1977.

MC
15
2.01
Gone
 

A metre up is a hanging block - climb the thin crack to its left which widens to hand size, then over jugs to easy ground. Good protection. Mike Perry, 1977

15
0
Gone
 

Mantelshelf on to the hanging block and then bridge and jam up the groove. Adequate protection. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

16
0
Gone
 

Start below a pod with a ledge above a bulge; surmount the mantelpiece (crux - committing), bridge up and exit right. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

18
0
Gone
 

Climb the arête beside Mantelpiece, bridge on to the ledge, then over yellow lichen and finish past a block. The difficulty depends how much Mantelpiece is used. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

OE
21
0
Gone
 

Up the thin overhanging crack in a groove on brown rock until it opens out at 2/3 of the way for fingers, then left onto the edge. Strenuous but well protected. John Allen, 1979.

14
0
 

On the left side of the vegetated gully. Clamber over the scrub at the bottom, and then bridge up past the vege to a small overhang. Continue up the crack to exit. Lindsay Main, 2008.

16
0
 

3m R of Orange Energy. The curving left-facing corner, with obvious long jammed block. At the final roof move R, then back L above roof and up groove. Alan Hill, 2003

17
0
 

About three metres right – the central of three short buttresses. Place gear in the crack on the left before committing to the pull over on to the ledge. Continue up the arête and easier ground to finish. Joe Arts, 2008

16
0
 

Between two buttresses is this obvious V-corner with vegetated ledges. Nice climbing up the central corner to a small jungle, then a short corner to finish. Good protection. Lindsay Main, 2009.

19
0
 

Further R is a buttress with a wide crack above large stacked blocks.

Scramble up over the blocks and climb the crack. Step L and up to finish. Alan Hill, 2003.

21
0
 

Start just to the R. Climb blocks then up vegetated ramp R of red Meat, then layback directly up the thin crack/groove. Alan Hill, 2003

VT
20
1.02
Gone
 

The next climbs are 5 metres right past a vegetated area

A thin crack line on a short black wall. Start in a small recess and use face holds following the crack line. Exit directly, or rightward using the top edge. Good wires at the top. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

16
0
 

Climb the blocks into the corner, bridge up to holds leading right. Harder for those with short eyes! Bill Atkinson, 1977.

F
16
0
 

Over blocks with orange spots to the platform and corner, then bridge and jam. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

20
1.02
 

From the Ferret ledge traverse right and climb the thin black crack. Rick McGregor, 1979

22
0
 

Direct start straight up the crack without using the Ferret block. There are small holds to the right. Brian Fish, 1980.

23
0
Gone
 

Climb the arête right of Crazy Fingers until a diagonal thin crack leads into the top of Stranger. One bolt. Good luck. Ton Snelder.

21
0
Gone
 

Climb the crack in the wall left of Stranger directly, joining Stranger near the top. Protection is subtle but not absent. Dave Fearnley, 1982

S
17
2.01
 

Double crack slanting left with a bulge at the top. Technical, with an exciting finish. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

21
0
 

Climb the arête right of Stranger, keeping to the left until about 3/4 of the way up In The Night. Share a few moves with this climb then move back left. Protection is from the climbs on each side. John Barnes, 1987

IN
22
2.01
 

A classic bridging problem - the overhanging left-leaning groove starting from a grassy ledge. Sustained. Committing moves on the lower half, but protection is good on the top section. John Allen, 1979.

24
0
 

Hard climbing up the overhanging prow protecting by a very rusty bolt and piton. Dave Fearnley, 1985.

LF
18
1.02
 

Tricky start to the crack and corner, then past grass and a small bulge to the ledge. Then up the left-slanting hand crack. Good protection. Anchors are a bolt and a large rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

TL
23
0
 

Climb to the ledge on Little Feat, then take the right-hand crack through orange rock. Bridging and hand jams lead to a strenuous exit onto the upper wall. Good protection can be arranged with a bit of effort. John Allen, 1980

18
0
 

Much altered during the 2005 fatal accident. Start off a block left of the yellow lichen and climb the broken crack line. Previously you could bridge onto the hanging block, and step left on to a ledge, allowing access to a technical and committing finish. James Jenkins, 1980.

20
0
 

The overhanging blocks that formed the gnarly crack have now gone.. Finish up the crack in the overhanging wall above. Good protection. Rick McGregor, 1979.

RB
20
0
Gone
 

The right-hand crack. Climb As previously, the main block has gone. From the ledge continue up on steep broken rock. John Allen 1979

24
0
Gone
 

Start at the fence. Hard climbing over the overlap, then move up and right to finish using holds on the right edge. Serious - one old bolt. Dave Fearnley, 1982.

16
0
 

Right of the fence are a number of short climbs of lesser quality, usually soloed.

The black and yellow wall beside the fence to a right-facing corner. Awkward move into the crack to finish up blocks. Often wet. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

18
0
 

Thin moves up a seam a metre right of Wrong Un. John Allen, 1979.

15
0
 

Up the crack beside the rib and left to join Flowerpot Man. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

17
0
Gone
 

Climb the crack in the groove to a vegetated ledge. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

16
0
Gone
 

Up the crack with green lichen to loose blocks at the ledge. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

14
0
 

Hand-jam practice. The short crack leading to the ledge. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

12
0
 

Bridging and jugs around a wide crack and blocks, then up the recessed corner. Bill Atkinson, 1977

Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main
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