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Left Cliff

Type
Part of

The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been rockfall in a number of places. THERE ARE STILL PLENTY OF LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS.! Care and good judgement is needed when climbing here.
The description, topos and routes have not yet been fully updated with regards to earthquake damage as at March 2022.
Orientation
Some climbs are marked by painted initials to help to identify them. On the Left Cliff, Right One (19) is a fairly obvious crack and corner beside an overhanging prow. Around a bit is the overhanging jam crack Blood (17), with Mike's Climb (16) a vertical crack just right. On the next section is Velvet Toes (20), a thin crack on a vertical black wall, with the finger crack Crazy Fingers (19) right a little. Adjacent is the distinctive leaning double crack of Stranger (17), and then a pair of steep cracks, Little Feat (18) and The Loom (23).
The first five routes are on a small cliff on the left. The first three start at a ledge.

Image
Walktime
5 min
Aspect
West
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Michelangelo, 21 21
0

A few metres left of Dog is a bulge/roof, with a thin crack through it which
is climbed directly. Frazer Munro, 2000.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

 Dog, 12 12 0m
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

Low-angle right-facing groove on the left. Small wires.


 Back To The Future, 18 18
0

Thin crack at the edge of the brown wall. Pro from wires. Bill Atkinson,
1977.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

 Times Past, 16 16
0

A metre right - through the bulge with poor wires and up the groove. Flaky
rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Gripper, 17 17
0

Start at the base of the cliff in a chimney and climb past a bush and steeply
up on loose jugs to the crack - adequate protection. Lindsay Main, 1979.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Know Me Before You Judge Me, 17 17
0

Just long the crag a little.
Deceptively steep. Start just L of Dirge, climbing up and LW on the steep
wall, Step right briefly back left to gain the arête with crack to finish.
Better than it looks. Pete Gresham, 2005


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Dirge, 9 9
0

The broken gully just right. Steepish at the bottom, but there are large
though not necessarily solid holds.


  • P1
  • 9
  • Trad

 Scar Tissue, 17 17
0

Start in the groove just left of Ray’s Climb. Bridge up and surmount the
bulge to gain the scooped wall; then at the low-angled loose corner move
right on to the wall/arête. Adequate protection at the top and good on the
lower section. Lindsay Main, 2005


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

RC RCRay's Climb, 11 11
0

About five metres right of Dirge is a wide crack in a corner with a bulge
mid-way but easy finish. Ray Begg, 1977


  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

 Daryll's Climb, 17 17
1.02

Climb the steep crack to a bulge and layback around. There is a bolt anchor,
backed up with a long sling and/or cams. Daryll Thomson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Two Separate Gorillas, 21 21
0

Almost independent of DC. Start on the slab and place gear in the crack at
left before engaging the overhanging right-leaning crack. Lindsay Main,
2007.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

 Four-Stone Weakling, 17 17
0

Start in the crack with grass and scranble to the change in angle, then
straight up the irregular crack with good protection and big holds. Lindsay
Main, 2007.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Hometown Blues, 16 16
0

Climb the crack with a fern to a ledge, and up the overhanging crack in a
brown corner to top out on secure blocks. Mandi Power, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

CR CRCrag Rat, 15 15
0

The crack just right with good holds. Move slightly right to the ledge, then
exit straight up a steep crack. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

P PPincer, 20 20
0

Start a small rib and step left to the crack. Climb the steep wall with a
wire, move right slightly, then up to easy ground. If you fall off and pull
the wire don't land on the pointed rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Howard's Climb, 21 21
0

Start in a corner with yellow rock. Boulder up to the overhang then swing up
on jugs onto the wall and easier climbing. Committing moves through the
bulge with uncertain protection. John Howard, 1979.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

L1 L1Left One, 16 16
1.02

The left of two cracks - deceptively steep, but jugs eventually appear. Good
protection. Double bolt anchor. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

R1 R1Right One, 19 19
0

The crack just left of an overhanging prow. Tricky climbing on a steep wall
to gain the crack, then committing moves with improving protection. Continue
up easy ground to the top of the crag. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

 Itsa, 22 22
0

Follow the weakness past white lichen up the overhanging wall right of the
prow. Move left to pull over to the top of Right One. Strenuous. Adequate
protection. John Allen, 1979


  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

 Henry's Climb, 17 17
0

Up a small pillar to the awkward mantelshelf, then follow the crack into the
gully and easy ground. Henry Mares, 1977.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

L LLunge, 19 19
0

The thin crack just right. From the ledge at the base up the crack which
widens to fist size; over ledges into the gully. Adequate protection.
Lindsay Main, 1979.


  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

V VVarmint, 14 14
0

Start at an orange wall and jam the crack to the vegetated ledge, then move
right to an easier crack to the top. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

B BBlood, 17 17
1.02

The bulging jam crack to the Varmint ledge, taking care to avoid the Bush
Lawyer. Finish to the right. Bill Atkinson 1977.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Jon's Climb, 20 20
0

Awkward start up the blackish groove and over the small bulge, between the
two cracks without using the crack of Mike's Climb. Adequate pro. Jon
Chester 1977.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

MC MCMike's Climb, 15 15
2.01

A metre up is a hanging block - climb the thin crack to its left which widens
to hand size, then over jugs to easy ground. Good protection. Mike Perry,
1977


  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

 Hammerhead, 15 15
0

Mantelshelf on to the hanging block and then bridge and jam up the groove.
Adequate protection. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

 Mantelpiece, 16 16
0

Start below a pod with a ledge above a bulge; surmount the mantelpiece (crux

  • committing), bridge up and exit right. Bill Atkinson, 1977.

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Edge, 18 18
0

Climb the arête beside Mantelpiece, bridge on to the ledge, then over yellow
lichen and finish past a block. The difficulty depends how much Mantelpiece
is used. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

OE OEOrange Energy, 21 21
0

Up the thin overhanging crack in a groove on brown rock until it opens out at
2/3 of the way for fingers, then left onto the edge. Strenuous but well
protected. John Allen, 1979.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

 By The Way, 14 14
0

On the left side of the vegetated gully. Clamber over the scrub at the
bottom, and then bridge up past the vege to a small overhang. Continue up the
crack to exit. Lindsay Main, 2008.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

 Orange Toes, 16 16
0

3m R of Orange Energy. The curving left-facing corner, with obvious long
jammed block. At the final roof move R, then back L above roof and up groove.
Alan Hill, 2003


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 A Pleasant Easterly, 17 17
0

About three metres right – the central of three short buttresses. Place
gear in the crack on the left before committing to the pull over on to the
ledge. Continue up the arête and easier ground to finish. Joe Arts, 2008


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Gale Force, 16 16
0

Between two buttresses is this obvious V-corner with vegetated ledges. Nice
climbing up the central corner to a small jungle, then a short corner to
finish. Good protection. Lindsay Main, 2009.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Red Meat, 19 19
0

Further R is a buttress with a wide crack above large stacked blocks.
Scramble up over the blocks and climb the crack. Step L and up to finish.
Alan Hill, 2003.


  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

 Born Again Carnivore, 21 21
0

Start just to the R. Climb blocks then up vegetated ramp R of red Meat, then
layback directly up the thin crack/groove. Alan Hill, 2003


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

VT VTVelvet Toes, 20 20
1.02

The next climbs are 5 metres right past a vegetated area
A thin crack line on a short black wall. Start in a small recess and use
face holds following the crack line. Exit directly, or rightward using the
top edge. Good wires at the top. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Short Eyes, 16 16
0

Climb the blocks into the corner, bridge up to holds leading right. Harder
for those with short eyes! Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

F FFerret, 16 16
0

Over blocks with orange spots to the platform and corner, then bridge and
jam. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

F FCrazy Ferret, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The line where Ferret and Crazy Fingers were is now a wide double corner with reasonable small gear. Finish up right towards the top of Stranger. It might be possible for a brave climber to straighten this line up at the top at a harder grade.


 Crazy Fingers, 20 20
1.02

From the Ferret ledge traverse right and climb the thin black crack. Rick
McGregor, 1979


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Crazy Fingers Direct, 22 22
0

Direct start straight up the crack without using the Ferret block. There are
small holds to the right. Brian Fish, 1980.


  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

 Green Poultice Direct, 23 23 1
0

Climb the arête right of Crazy Fingers until a diagonal thin crack leads
into the top of Stranger. One bolt. Good luck. Ton Snelder.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 1
  • Trad

 Thunderbirds Are Go, 21 21
0

Climb the crack in the wall left of Stranger directly, joining Stranger near
the top. Protection is subtle but not absent. Dave Fearnley, 1982
This climb is not gone, but the top is radically altered. The main body of the route at the bottom is unchanged by the earthquake.


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

S SStranger, 17 17
2.01

Double crack slanting left with a bulge at the top. Technical, with an
exciting finish. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 The Song Remains The Same, 21 21
0

Climb the arête right of Stranger, keeping to the left until about 3/4 of
the way up In The Night. Share a few moves with this climb then move back
left. Protection is from the climbs on each side. John Barnes, 1987


  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

IN INIn The Night, 22 22
2.01

A classic bridging problem - the overhanging left-leaning groove starting
from a grassy ledge. Sustained. Committing moves on the lower half, but
protection is good on the top section. John Allen, 1979.


  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

 Moon River, 24 24 1
0

Hard climbing up the overhanging prow protecting by a very rusty bolt and
piton. Dave Fearnley, 1985.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 1
  • Trad

LF LFLittle Feat, 18 18
1.02

Tricky start to the crack and corner, then past grass and a small bulge to
the ledge. Then up the left-slanting hand crack. Good protection. Anchors are
a bolt and a large rock. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

TL TLThe Loom, 23 23
0

Climb to the ledge on Little Feat, then take the right-hand crack through
orange rock. Bridging and hand jams lead to a strenuous exit onto the upper
wall. Good protection can be arranged with a bit of effort. John Allen,
1980


  • P1
  • 23
  • Trad

 Botanist, 18 18
0

Much altered during the 2005 fatal accident. Start off a block left of the
yellow lichen and climb the broken crack line. Previously you could bridge
onto the hanging block, and step left on to a ledge, allowing access to a
technical and committing finish. James Jenkins, 1980.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

 Left Bastard, 20 20
0

The overhanging blocks that formed the gnarly crack have now gone.. Finish
up the crack in the overhanging wall above. Good protection. Rick McGregor,
1979.


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

RB RBRubber Bullet, 20 20
0

The right-hand crack. Climb As previously, the main block has gone. From the
ledge continue up on steep broken rock. John Allen 1979


  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

 Colossal Youth, 24 24 1
0

Start at the fence. Hard climbing over the overlap, then move up and right
to finish using holds on the right edge. Serious - one old bolt. Dave
Fearnley, 1982.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 1
  • Trad

 Wrong Un, 16 16
0

Right of the fence are a number of short climbs of lesser quality, usually
soloed.
The black and yellow wall beside the fence to a right-facing corner. Awkward
move into the crack to finish up blocks. Often wet. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Flowerpot Man, 18 18
0

Thin moves up a seam a metre right of Wrong Un. John Allen, 1979.


  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

 Bush, 15 15
0

Up the crack beside the rib and left to join Flowerpot Man. Bill Atkinson,
1977.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

 Black, 17 17
0

Climb the crack in the groove to a vegetated ledge. Bill Atkinson, 1977.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

 Slip, 16 16
0

Up the crack with green lichen to loose blocks at the ledge. Bill Atkinson,
1977.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

 Jam, 14 14
0

Hand-jam practice. The short crack leading to the ledge. Bill Atkinson,
1977.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

 Grebe, 12 12
0

Bridging and jugs around a wide crack and blocks, then up the recessed
corner. Bill Atkinson, 1977


  • P1
  • 12
  • Trad

Images

Comments
Attribution
By Lindsay Main
UUID
 
52a26ee9-767e-4bf2-bc73-0942dc2f4a99