All Whale Stream routes except those on the major Peaks (Dun Fiunary, Ferintosh).
Up the stream bed with multiple crossings - either from the highway, or obtain access from Ferintosh Station 03 4350512 to walk old farm track on true right. After 700m this turns into a small swampy track; just before being forced into the creek, watch for a taped gap on the left, which leads to a re-cut trail on the farm track bench, emerging into the creekbed close to 2km from the road. Whale Stream Hut is now non-existent. A mediocre bivvy rock exists on terraces on true right just below the forks; however better accommodation is found camping on the lovely flats just above the forks in the Northern branch (topo waypoint). Affords a great view of Ferintosh; arguably the most aesthetic peak in the range. 2-3 hrs to here.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| IWC / White line | IWC / White lineIWC, 17 | 17 | 210m | 3  |
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Multipitch rockclimbing in the true left of Whale Stream (North Branch), a brisk 3hr walk from the road. Two routes exist on a striking fin of rock that eases into a prominent spur above. Camping in the North branch above the forks (2 1/4 hrs) is very scenic, and recommended (a shoddy small bivvy rock also exists in a large boulder pile on the true right of the forks - cairned). Although the creekbed can be used initially to access the conservation land further up Whale Stream (See Pocketmaps app/online), phoning Ferintosh Station is recommended (03 435 0512 / 027 931 0200), both as a courtesy, and to enquire about access over Ferintosh, as the farm track then recut 4WD track on the true right offers much faster travel over the first 2km. This route (International Whaling Commission) was used as a meandering but enjoyable access route to prepare The Dorsal Fin, the (harder and better) direct arete of the fin. IWC shares two pleasant access pitches with the Dorsal Fin, then 4 pitches in the crack / corner systems left of the fin. The central feature is a huge right-facing corner. Mainly solid rock, would benefit from some further cleaning of vegetation on the crux pitch, and using P3 (harder but bolted) of Dorsal Fin rather than P3 of IWC. Grades, length, bolts and details tentative (not recorded at time). Mainly gear anchors.
P1: Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2.
P2: Continue up the crest, then step left at the top and belay at the base of the wall on the left. Easy and runout (a couple of bolts, small gear).
P3: Up and left (grassy) to avoid large roofs, then up a short left-facing corner and back right on ledges to belay below a huge, clean-cut right facing corner. Some loose rock. This pitch can best be avoided by harder but better sport climbing on the neighboring route to the right (Dorsal Fin), which has a DBA anchor several meters right of IWC P4 start.
P4: Up the huge, clean-cut right-facing corner. This is a classic pitch on great rock, and has a continuous crack up the corner, but may need more grass cleaned from it! Belay in a cramped bomb-bay alcove directly beneath the highest roof at the top of the corner system.
Left out of the cave and through the roof via a crack/groove, then trend back right across the slabs (cracks) to gain the large corner against the fin. Follow this up to belay on a low angle bench below a final steep wall.
Break up the steep wall on the right, dramatic features but surprisingly easy and exhilarating climbing. Belay on the narrow ridge crest above. To get off, pitch across/down the ridge to a DBA where it steepens. Rap the Dorsal Fin (neighbouring route). Raps are around 30m - if you only have one rope, make sure you have knots in the ends! |
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| The Dorsal Fin, 19 | 19 | 227m | 10 |
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A great multipitch rockclimb on the true left of Whale Stream (North Branch), a brisk 3hr walk from the road. Two routes exist on a striking fin of rock that eases into a prominent spur above. Camping in the North branch above the forks (2 1/4 hrs) is very scenic, and recommended (a shoddy small bivvy rock also exists in a large boulder pile on the true right of the forks - cairned). Although the creekbed can be used initially to access the conservation land further up Whale Stream (See Pocketmaps app/online), phoning Ferintosh Station is recommended (Marion, at 03 435 0512 / 027 931 0200), both as a courtesy and to enquire about access over Ferintosh: the farm track then recut 4WD track on the true right offers much faster travel than the creekbed over the first 2km (after that, directly up the creek until just past the forks, then around a short gorge by going over grassy old moraines on left or right, dropping back into the valley floor of the North Branch [camping] beyond). This route takes a stunning line up the direct arete of the fin on high-quality rock. Grades, length, bolts and details tentative (not recorded at time).
P1: Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2. Shared with IWC (neighbouring route).
P2: Continue on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2. Shared with IWC (neighbouring route). At the top, move left on the wide ledges to a belay against a wall of small overlaps above.
P3: Up and right (bolts) through small overlaps. Tenuous, cryptic climbing; good movement. Some gear is probably still desirable. Pull over a slopey top-out onto a low angle slab, to a DBA left of a gully
P4: Cross the gully and past a couple of bolts on a steep wall to the very crest of the fin. Follow this on big holds past occasional bolts to a DBA.
P5: Up steep cracks and face to another DBA. P5 and P6 could be linked.
P6: Up cracks left of the roof then cracks and face climbing up the blunt crest above to a final DBA at a large sloping ledge where the angle eases. From here, either continue your adventure to the top of the peak and expansive climbs via easy climbing and scrambling (when snowfree), descending by the basin to the SE (downstream) - make sure you took a good look on the approach as there is some routefinding complexity - or much quicker, rap the route. Raps are around 30m, so be sure to knot the ends of your rope. From the ledge at the top of P2, walk to the climbers right side - a separate rap station here allows a 10m rap to the screes below the climb.
ALT. P4: Take the cleaned handcrack (ample gear) against the left side of the fin (right of the giant chimney). Climb this, then bust steeply over the arete to the join the original route on P5, finishing at the P5 anchors. |
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| All That Glitters, 15 | 15 | 60m | |
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A long, striking looking handcrack from the valley floor. Naturally, close inspection reveals an jagged offwidth up questionable rock. Visible several hundred meters up the true left valley wall, from shortly below the forks in whale stream. 2.5 hrs approach from the road. Grade and length tentative (not recorded at time).
The crack slanting up the left face of the prominent fin / arete. Marginal pro and questionable rock, not worth the walk in itself. |
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| Better than Crack, 16 | 16 | 60m | |
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The arete right of 'All that Glitters'. Better rock & climbing, although probably no more gear than it's neighbour...
Directly up the arete, aesthetic and fun but on sparse gear. Gear belay at the top. A steep start (may have to angle in from left). |
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