Natural pro requiredMultipitch rockclimbing in the true left of Whale Stream (North Branch), a brisk 3hr walk from the road. Two routes exist on a striking fin of rock that eases into a prominent spur above. Camping in the North branch above the forks (2 1/4 hrs) is very scenic, and recommended (a shoddy small bivvy rock also exists in a large boulder pile on the true right of the forks - cairned). Although the creekbed can be used initially to access the conservation land further up Whale Stream (See Pocketmaps app/online), phoning Ferintosh Station is recommended (03 435 0512 / 027 931 0200), both as a courtesy, and to enquire about access over Ferintosh, as the farm track then recut 4WD track on the true right offers much faster travel over the first 2km.
This route (International Whaling Commission) was used as a meandering but enjoyable access route to prepare The Dorsal Fin, the (harder and better) direct arete of the fin. IWC shares two pleasant access pitches with the Dorsal Fin, then 4 pitches in the crack / corner systems left of the fin. The central feature is a huge right-facing corner. Mainly solid rock, would benefit from some further cleaning of vegetation on the crux pitch, and using P3 (harder but bolted) of Dorsal Fin rather than P3 of IWC. Grades, length, bolts and details tentative (not recorded at time). Mainly gear anchors.
- P1
- 10
- 50m
- 3
- Trad
P1: Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2.
- P2
- 10
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
P2: Continue up the crest, then step left at the top and belay at the base of the wall on the left. Easy and runout (a couple of bolts, small gear).
- P3
- 14
- 30m
- Trad
P3: Up and left (grassy) to avoid large roofs, then up a short left-facing corner and back right on ledges to belay below a huge, clean-cut right facing corner. Some loose rock. This pitch can best be avoided by harder but better sport climbing on the neighboring route to the right (Dorsal Fin), which has a DBA anchor several meters right of IWC P4 start.
- P4
- 17
- 35m
- Trad
P4: Up the huge, clean-cut right-facing corner. This is a classic pitch on great rock, and has a continuous crack up the corner, but may need more grass cleaned from it! Belay in a cramped bomb-bay alcove directly beneath the highest roof at the top of the corner system.
- P5
- 15
- 35m
- Trad
Left out of the cave and through the roof via a crack/groove, then trend back right across the slabs (cracks) to gain the large corner against the fin. Follow this up to belay on a low angle bench below a final steep wall.
- P6
- 15
- 10m
- Trad
Break up the steep wall on the right, dramatic features but surprisingly easy and exhilarating climbing. Belay on the narrow ridge crest above. To get off, pitch across/down the ridge to a DBA where it steepens. Rap the Dorsal Fin (neighbouring route). Raps are around 30m - if you only have one rope, make sure you have knots in the ends!
