Natural pro requiredA great multipitch rockclimb on the true left of Whale Stream (North Branch), a brisk 3hr walk from the road. Two routes exist on a striking fin of rock that eases into a prominent spur above. Camping in the North branch above the forks (2 1/4 hrs) is very scenic, and recommended (a shoddy small bivvy rock also exists in a large boulder pile on the true right of the forks - cairned). Although the creekbed can be used initially to access the conservation land further up Whale Stream (See Pocketmaps app/online), phoning Ferintosh Station is recommended (Marion, at 03 435 0512 / 027 931 0200), both as a courtesy and to enquire about access over Ferintosh: the farm track then recut 4WD track on the true right offers much faster travel than the creekbed over the first 2km (after that, directly up the creek until just past the forks, then around a short gorge by going over grassy old moraines on left or right, dropping back into the valley floor of the North Branch [camping] beyond). This route takes a stunning line up the direct arete of the fin on high-quality rock. Grades, length, bolts and details tentative (not recorded at time).
- P1
- 10
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
P1: Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2. Shared with IWC (neighbouring route).
- P2
- 11
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
P2: Continue on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest. There is a belay halfway (either 2 bolts, or bolt + gear), but confident parties may choose to simul-climb P1 & 2. Shared with IWC (neighbouring route). At the top, move left on the wide ledges to a belay against a wall of small overlaps above.
- P3
- 18
- 22m
- 10
- Trad
P3: Up and right (bolts) through small overlaps. Tenuous, cryptic climbing; good movement. Some gear is probably still desirable. Pull over a slopey top-out onto a low angle slab, to a DBA left of a gully
- P4
- 17
- 30m
- 5
- Trad
P4: Cross the gully and past a couple of bolts on a steep wall to the very crest of the fin. Follow this on big holds past occasional bolts to a DBA.
- P5
- 18
- 10m
- Trad
P5: Up steep cracks and face to another DBA. P5 and P6 could be linked.
- P6
- 19
- 30m
- Trad
P6: Up cracks left of the roof then cracks and face climbing up the blunt crest above to a final DBA at a large sloping ledge where the angle eases. From here, either continue your adventure to the top of the peak and expansive climbs via easy climbing and scrambling (when snowfree), descending by the basin to the SE (downstream) - make sure you took a good look on the approach as there is some routefinding complexity - or much quicker, rap the route. Raps are around 30m, so be sure to knot the ends of your rope. From the ledge at the top of P2, walk to the climbers right side - a separate rap station here allows a 10m rap to the screes below the climb.
- P7
- 18
- 35m
- Trad
ALT. P4: Take the cleaned handcrack (ample gear) against the left side of the fin (right of the giant chimney). Climb this, then bust steeply over the arete to the join the original route on P5, finishing at the P5 anchors.
