North Buttress

Ascend snow slopes towards Witches Col at the foot of the buttress, and head up the northern side of the rib. After 200m, cut back onto the rib and follow it to the prominent notch (may require an abseil). Above here, cut left and find the best and safest route through the icecliffs.
‘The Heemskerck and Abel Janzoon Faces
are topped by the enormous icecap of the North Shoulder. This seems to have cycles of serac building and although generally stable, it has been known to calve in cataclysmic fashion’ – Dave Vass.
Dave Vass, Nick Cradock, July 1998