The route that started it all. Ascend the gully (or the rib on its right) in the centre of the face before being confronted by rising icewalls. Climb these tending left and finish up 45o ice slopes to the summit. Some parties have climbed the ice walls direct and finished on the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge.
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A few lines have been added to the right side of the face, Dave Andrews and Neil Harding-Roberts completed a buttress route in winter 1984, but it is not clear where this goes. The following routes exit onto the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge.
Bill Denz, Bryan Pooley, Dec 1971.
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Jun 1975.