The major zigzag buttress right of the North Buttress. There are approximately 15 pitches of excellent mixed climbing involving three major rock steps. The first ascent team avoided the second rock step by ‘dropping into the gully on the right.’ Variation: climb the second buttress directly (Tech Grade 6, crux 18).
This route is best climbed in the spring or winter when a bit of ice holds any loose rock together. The first ascent team bivvied twice en route (a good site is at two thirds height on a narrow ice arête).
Dave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994
- Alpine (Technical) 5+
- Alpine (Commitment) VI
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 5