Type:
Mountain
Altitude:
2091m tba
NZMS260:
E39 673 360
Topo50:
CA11 573 743 
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
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I 1
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From the Bonar, Joffre is half an hour’s easy rock scramble up any convenient route.
Party led by Frank Wright, Dec 1914 |
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4
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III 4 16
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From the head of the Matukituki Valley the South Face of Joffre is more involved than a half hour scramble. From near Scotts Bivvy head up to the face which is on the true right of the Breakaway. A steep spur just to the right of the avalanche gut carved by the Breakaway gives easy access to the face. The first ascent took a line which starts off a large patch of snow under an overhanging wall. Then taking the line of least resistance, climbed on a rising traverse which took in a series of ledges to come out near the top of the true right of the large gully that runs on a diagonal from the base of the face to the summit.
There are approximately 10 pitches and, of these, half are good rock. It would be possible to construct a more pleasant line by the use of bolts and taking a more direct line to the summit.
After topping out on the first ascent, to a perfect summers evening, the two climbers wandered down the Bonar to Colin Todd Hut in running shoes. Like a couple of street kids they threw themselves on the mercy of the residents and passed a pleasant night with borrowed food and a blanket. Camaraderie and hospitality are still alive and well in the hills—may it always be so.
➠ The slopes above the face are subject to avalanches.
Geoff Ellis & Allan Uren, Jan 1999. |
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Attribution:
Allen Uren & John Cocks
This place appears in:
