E39 673 360
CA11 573 743
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
I 1
  From the Bonar, Joffre is half an hour’s easy rock scramble up any convenient route.

Party led by Frank Wright, Dec 1914

III 4 16
  From the head of the Matukituki Valley the South Face of Joffre is more involved than a half hour scramble. From near Scotts Bivvy head up to the face which is on the true right of the Breakaway. A steep spur just to the right of the avalanche gut carved by the Breakaway gives easy access to the face. The first ascent took a line which starts off a large patch of snow under an overhanging wall. Then taking the line of least resistance, climbed on a rising traverse which took in a series of ledges to come out near the top of the true right of the large gully that runs on a diagonal from the base of the face to the summit. There are approximately 10 pitches and, of these, half are good rock. It would be possible to construct a more pleasant line by the use of bolts and taking a more direct line to the summit. After topping out on the first ascent, to a perfect summers evening, the two climbers wandered down the Bonar to Colin Todd Hut in running shoes. Like a couple of street kids they threw themselves on the mercy of the residents and passed a pleasant night with borrowed food and a blanket. Camaraderie and hospitality are still alive and well in the hills—may it always be so. ➠ The slopes above the face are subject to avalanches.

Geoff Ellis & Allan Uren, Jan 1999.

Allen Uren & John Cocks
This place appears in: 
The Mount Aspiring Region: a guide for mountaineers
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