Mt Joffre

(2 routes)


-44.403318000000, 168.696515000000
E39 673 360
CA11 573 743
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
From the Bonar Glacier. I 1
From the Bonar, Joffre is half an hour’s easy rock scramble up any convenient route.
Party led by Frank Wright, Dec 1914
4 The South Face. From Cannibalism to Karaoke. III 4 16
From the head of the Matukituki Valley the South Face of Joffre is more involved than a half hour scramble. From near Scotts Bivvy head up to the face which is on the true right of the Breakaway. A steep spur just to the right of the avalanche gut carved by the Breakaway gives easy access to the face. The first ascent took a line which starts off a large patch of snow under an overhanging wall. Then taking the line of least resistance, climbed on a rising traverse which took in a series of ledges to come out near the top of the true right of the large gully that runs on a diagonal from the base of the face to the summit. There are approximately 10 pitches and, of these, half are good rock. It would be possible to construct a more pleasant line by the use of bolts and taking a more direct line to the summit. After topping out on the first ascent, to a perfect summers evening, the two climbers wandered down the Bonar to Colin Todd Hut in running shoes. Like a couple of street kids they threw themselves on the mercy of the residents and passed a pleasant night with borrowed food and a blanket. Camaraderie and hospitality are still alive and well in the hills—may it always be so. ➠ The slopes above the face are subject to avalanches.
Geoff Ellis & Allan Uren, Jan 1999.
Allen Uren & John Cocks