Natural pro requiredA great climb on a prominent snow / ice line visible from near the Breakaway. Approach by dropping down snowslopes from the Breakaway, turning a small rocky spur, and a gaining an easy approach slope to the climb. Alternatively, the climb can easily be accessed by following a dry creekbed just beyond Scotts Biv to where a small promontory overlooks the debris zone from serac avalanches. Gain some height, run the exposed gauntlet at a narrowing and cross over to the true right of the drainage where slopes (exposed to snow avalanche but not serac fall) can be followed to the route. Abseil the route or easy walk off to the Bonar. Attempted by Dave Hiddleston and Anna Gillooly in the 1990s, but Dave took a lead fall and the team retreated (Nick Cradock pers. comm. 2020)
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 5
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- Water Ice WI4
- 450m
- Trad
P1 65 m crux WI4 start up steep snow and ice moving through vertical steps. Belays on rock at left available P2 65 m WI3 steep steps with occasional respite, belay near the base of a pillar of good ice on the left P3 70 m crux WI4 climb a steep vertical pillar. Some gentler 65 snow before another vertical pillar that on during the first recorded ascent had formed slightly beyond vertical snice. Take options for protection when you get them. Great belay below rock roof (rock belay possible) P4 70 m WI3 short steep step then long 60 degree snow slope P5 70 m WI3 remainder of snow slope then short steep step P6 70 m WI2 short steep step then long 50 degree snow slope P7 60 m 50 degree snow slope to exit. A cornice may require tunnelling
