Mt Haidinger

Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach the Upper Haast Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge. Other more difficult routes may exist to the right on the upper face.

This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively loose rock, dropping from the North Peak. The spur has been gained by two routes. i) Via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier. ii) Up scree and rock south of the Forrest-Ross Glacier to a small snow basin.

These short 350m routes are gained by climbing scree slopes and a rotten ridge onto Emas Dome, then dropping to Forrest-Ross Glacier névé. Cross the névé to gain either the ridge or the face that meets the Main Divide, some distance north of the North Peak.

From the Albert Névé ascend the snow slopes left of the West Face routes.

The most elegant way lies up the arête which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.