Mt Haidinger

(10 routes)


-43.551366600000, 170.199667900000
H36 838 358
BX16 738 741
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
East Face Route 3
Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach the Upper Haast Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge. Other more difficult routes may exist to the right on the upper face.
Dick Strong, Keith Thompson, Dec 1970
East Spur 3+
This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively loose rock, dropping from the North Peak. The spur has been gained by two routes. i) Via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier. ii) Up scree and rock south of the Forrest-Ross Glacier to a small snow basin.
i) D C Ball, Bob Cunninghame, Jan 1960.
East Ridge/North East Face 3
These short 350m routes are gained by climbing scree slopes and a rotten ridge onto Emas Dome, then dropping to Forrest-Ross Glacier névé. Cross the névé to gain either the ridge or the face that meets the Main Divide, some distance north of the North Peak.
Jack Clarke, J R Simpson, Mar 1913.
Haidinger-Douglas Col 3
From the Albert Névé, beyond the ski-plane landing strip, ascend the snowslopes left of the West Face routes.
Joe Fluerty, Mark Lysons, M H Williams, Feb 1934 (Descended).
West Ridge 3
From the névé gain the rounded rib beside the West Face, heading up easy mixed ground and tending out left to finish up the same summit gullies as the West Face routes.
First ascent party unknown.
Albino Merino 4
The couloir between the West and South Ridges.
Dave Crow, Lyn Bowering, Sep 1985.
South Ridge 3-
If climbed from Governor Col, a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.
Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895.
South Ridge, Variant
The ridge can be gained at many points. The most elegant way lies up the arête which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.
Joe Fluerty, Mark Lysons, M H Williams, Feb 1934.
Alex Palman


Type Title Link to edit content
Face (Alpine) West Face (2 routes)