East Face

Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach the Upper Kaufmann Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge.

Climbs the left ‘fang’ of ice on the right side of east face: a 4-pitch waterfall in the centre of the headwall. Mostly 70 degree ice with some vertical steps. The first ascensionists accessed the route by climbing to the lower south ridge from the Fox névé then abseiling and traversing to the base of the route.

Climbs the right hand ‘ice fang,’ which is slightly easier than White Steel. The first ascensionists accessed the route by climbing to the lower south ridge from the Fox névé then abseiling and traversing to the base of the route.

This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively loose rock, leading to the north peak. The spur has been gained by two routes:
(i) via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier; and
(ii) up scree and rock south of the Forrest Ross Glacier to a small snow basin.

This 350m high route meets the Main Divide some distance north of Haidinger’s north summit. Climb scree slopes and a rotten rock ridge onto Emas Dome, then drop onto the Forrest-Ross Glacier névé. Cross the névé to gain either the ridge, then climb to the prominent point on the Main Divide.

This 350m high route meet the Main Divide some distance north of Haidinger’s north summit. Climb scree slopes and a rotten rock ridge onto Emas Dome, then drop onto the Forrest Ross Glacier névé. Cross the névé to gain either the face, then climb to the prominent point on the Main Divide.