Place info

La Perouse

(9 routes)

Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

  • 3078m



Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

H36 753 299
BX15 653 683
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
  From Gardiner Hut via Baker Saddle follow the snow arête until it runs out below icecliffs (beware of ice avalanches). Climb the rock buttresses to the left of the cliffs on sound rock or early in the summer follow an ice gully. Then following the winding arête to the summit. A dangerous route if the icecliffs are active.

Mike Gill, B Barrack, Jan 1960. Phil Penney, Nick Cradock, Whitney Thurlow, Aug 1990.

  The most elegant route is up a rounded rib that drops from the summit to the Hooker. From Gardiner Hut climb snow fields and rock ribs keeping an eye out for ice avalanches from cliffs to the right and left. Beware of soft snow slides later in the day in summer.

Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1962 Rob Hall, Steve & Michelle Lassche, Jun 1984. A ‘Baker Saddle East Face’ variant. Adam Darragh, Parish Robbins, summer 1997.

  A route begins up under Mt Jellicoe and traverses up under Mt Low to the right of the summit of Mt La Perouse. There are a number of other variant routes on this face.

Gordon Hasell, A R Page, I R Seddon, Richard Tornquist, Jan 1958. A variant using a rib on the East Face: Noel Sissons, J Keys, Dec 1971.

  This route begins by climbing Mt Jellicoe either via the slopes under Mt Sturdee and up a Y-shaped couloir, via the rotten Divide ridge, via slopes on the west or via a prominent snow arête from the upper Hooker (A D Jackson, V I E Whitehead, 1941). Beyond Jellicoe either traverse Mt Low and the ridge to La Perouse or skirt below the ridge on the western slopes and up to the summit. This is a long climb but still the most common descent route.

Hugh Chambers, Peter Graham, Mar 1921 (La Perouse). Bill McLeod, winter 1985.

  From the Gulch-La Perouse Glaciers junction ascend to a basin at 1550m where there are a number of natural rock shelters. From here ascend the ridge traversing several rotten rock steps. Then ascend a steep snowface onto the upper arête and follow this up onto the spacious summit area. A descent route has been made down the snow slopes to the north of the lower ridge.

Alex Graham, R S Low, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1906.

  From the head of the narrow Gulch Glacier (beware of avalanches off the West Ridge) follow snow leads tending left to gain the ridge above the obvious rock step.

Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Jan 1979

Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
100 Peaks
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers


Face South Face (3 routes)
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