South Face

(3 routes)

The climbs start in the Strauchon Glacier Area.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South West Ridge 4-
From the Strauchon Glacier ascend the Low Glacier onto the Navigator Range. Ascend on the Gulch Glacier side of the ridge. When the obvious rock step in the ridge is reached cut onto the Gulch Face and ascend directly on snow to where the South Ridge meets the South West Ridge. Also see the La Perouse Glacier section.
H T Barcham, Ash Cunningham, A Witten-Hannah, Jan 1953.
Slab Route 5- 14
Climb the diagonal slab that runs up the entire face (crux 14). The upper portion of the slab is usually snow covered and there may be a small icecliff to negotiate.
Peter Dickson, Bryan Moore, Jan 1988.
Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure 6+
Ascend the obvious main ice line that drips down the face. The upper section of the face is visible from Gardiner Hut. Near the top, gain the ramp of the slab route below the dormant(?) serac. Access to the base of the route may be threatened. Fourteen pitches. Two bivvies required. Probably the hardest route in the book.
Bill McLeod, Brian Alder, Aug 1993

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