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South Face

Type
Part of

The climbs start in the Strauchon Glacier Area.

Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 South West Ridge, 4- 4- 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

From the Strauchon Glacier ascend the Low Glacier onto the Navigator Range. Ascend on the Gulch Glacier side of the ridge. When the obvious rock step in the ridge is reached cut onto the Gulch Face and ascend directly on snow to where the South Ridge meets the South West Ridge. Also see the La Perouse Glacier section.


 Slab Route, 14,5- 14,5- 0m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5-

Climb the diagonal slab that runs up the entire face (crux 14). The upper portion of the slab is usually snow covered and there may be a small icecliff to negotiate.


 Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure, 6+ 6+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 6+

Ascend the obvious main ice line that drips down the face. The upper section of the face is visible from Gardiner Hut. Near the top, gain the ramp of the slab route below the dormant(?) serac. Access to the base of the route may be threatened. Fourteen pitches. Two bivvies required. Probably the hardest route in the book.


Comments
UUID
 
22227f07-8df2-45da-a5ae-9862a4d89ecb