|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start just R of the large pale block at horizontal fault 40m right of the corner. Diagonal up and R through 2 laps and between 2 obvious tussock patches to belay on top of R hand tussock patch.
Diagonal back L to belay beneath arête.
The best pitch ever. Up on L side of arête to start, swinging round to R at 5m. Weave up and L on superb rock and gear, to the only obvious and outrageous break through the roof just R of arête. Up to 1st suitable ledge on R. (Or stay left closer to arête?)
Pitches 4–7 continue up the arete to a staunch finish.
The right arete of the Dur. Sensational climbing on immaculate rock.
I 19 , 18 , 22 , 18
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 8 February 2016