North East Face

Type

Face

Part of

Sabre Pk

This steep sunny face contains a range of technical free and aid routes.

Aspect

North East

Approach

The Jones Dingle TV Route provides the best descent for routes the TV Route to Ram Paddock Road if you do not wish to climb beyond the slab.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
2	2Jones Chouinard, 16	16	0m	2.01
P1 16 Trad An excellent three pitch corner crack to the East Ridge. The crack widens to around four inches on the third pitch.
3	3Black Doris, 20	20	0m	2.01
P1 20 Trad Six Pitches. A superb route which climbs a right tending, hanging slab then left up cracks to join the left-end of Improbability Drive. Has a great diagonal crack pitch in the middle of the slab. Named by Calum after a girl he met in Trinidad.
4	4TV Route, 18	18	0m	3
P1 18 Trad Follow a left slanting hand-crack to the sloping ledges in the centre of the face then up the steep corner leading up from the right-end of the ledges.
5	5Improbability Drive		0m	0
P1 Trad After climbing the first two pitches of the TV route move up and right to the base of the roofs that run across the left-hand side of the face. Traverse these for three pitches (bad rock, good positions) to the East Ridge and easier ground.
6	6Franklin Wethey Variation, 17	17	0m	0
P1 17 Trad A two pitch avoidance of the first and second pitches of the TV Route. The first pitch involves a right-slanting hand traverse 14-15, then a short hand-crack at about grade 17 (crux). Continue up to meet the TV Route above its crux pitch.
7	7Sabre Rattling, 18	18	245m	2.01
P1 16 30m Trad Nine pitches. 16, 18, 14, 17, 18, 16, 16. Good free-climbing up the buttress to the right of the TV Route for three pitches then up the slab on the TV Route for two pitches. Finally break left up a steep crack system; the headwall has some amazing rock. Climb the slab and right facing shallow corner to belay at bottom of left facing prominent corner. P2 18 40m Trad Climb left facing corner on good gear. Continue up right to belay stance at base of slabs. P3 14 25m Trad Move right and up to belay just around prominent right-hand skyline. P4 17 30m Trad Right and up following laid back crack/corner system. Belay where corner steepens and narrows above. P5 18 30m Trad Move left and up into wide corner/weakness. Continue up and left over slight bulge to belay at small stance on skyline arête. P6 16 50m Trad Move right the follow left trending shallow corner. P7 16 40m Trad Up 10m then trend left towards easier ground follow a fantastic series of flakes and cracks. P8 Trad Scramble up easier ground.
8	8Ram Paddock Road, 24	24	100m	1.02
P1 19 20m Trad Four pitches: 19, 23, 24, 24. Originally a mixed aid line, A4. . Move directly up on good gear to a solid belay. P2 23 25m Trad Up the wall passing some bolts to a small roof. Belay 5m above. P3 24 15m Trad Head up and left from anchor clipping a couple of old bent pitons then straight up for several metres on minimal gear to a committing 4m traverse right. Head straight up to easier climbing, bomber rock and good times. Clip a couple more old pitons before belaying at a suspect flake with sardine can wedged in behind. An eerie pitch. P4 24 40m Trad Head straight up awkward corner continuing up an awesome layback section as it heads off right.
9	9Smash Palace, 23	23	0m	0
P1 23 Trad An overhanging layback and undercling crack up a right facing corner and arch.
10	10Ball and Chain A4		0m	1.02
P1 Climb/aid the overhanging crack which breaks through the large roofs and goes up to join the TV Route at half height. A quality aid line.
11	11Rock Candy		0m	0
P1 Trad A steep single pitch cutting through the crack on the Ball and Chain route

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

1081fa85-9ed9-4a23-9384-9dcdb299f474