2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Fiordland
  5. Darran Mountains
  6. Sabre Pk
  7. North East Face

North East Face

(10 routes)

This steep sunny face contains a range of technical free and aid routes.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North East
Access: 

The Jones Dingle TV Route provides the best descent for routes the TV Route to Ram Paddock Road if you do not wish to climb beyond the slab.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
2 Jones Chouinard 16
2.01
 wire representing trad
An excellent three pitch corner crack to the East Ridge. The crack widens to around four inches on the third pitch.
Murray Jones, Yvon Chouinard, 1971.
3 Black Doris 20
2.01
 wire representing trad
Six Pitches. A superb route which climbs a right tending, hanging slab then left up cracks to join the left-end of Improbability Drive. Has a great diagonal crack pitch in the middle of the slab. Named by Calum after a girl he met in Trinidad.
Calum Hudson, Stephan Schachtl, 1985.
4 TV Route 18
3
 wire representing trad
Follow a left slanting hand-crack to the sloping ledges in the centre of the face then up the steep corner leading up from the right-end of the ledges.
Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, Jan 1971.
5 Improbability Drive
0
 wire representing trad
After climbing the first two pitches of the TV route move up and right to the base of the roofs that run across the left-hand side of the face. Traverse these for three pitches (bad rock, good positions) to the East Ridge and easier ground.
John Dale, Nigel Perry, Feb 1981.
6 Franklin Wethey Variation 17
0
 wire representing trad
A two pitch avoidance of the first and second pitches of the TV Route. The first pitch involves a right-slanting hand traverse 14-15, then a short hand-crack at about grade 17 (crux). Continue up to meet the TV Route above its crux pitch.
Mike Franklin, Tim Wethey, Mar 1975.
7 Sabre Rattling 16 , 18 , 14 , 17 , 18 , 16 , 16 , 245m
2.01
 wire representing trad
Nine pitches. 16, 18, 14, 17, 18, 16, 16. Good free-climbing up the buttress to the right of the TV Route for three pitches then up the slab on the TV Route for two pitches. Finally break left up a steep crack system; the headwall has some amazing rock. Climb the slab and right facing shallow corner to belay at bottom of left facing prominent corner.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11630mYes
 Nine pitches. 16, 18, 14, 17, 18, 16, 16. Good free-climbing up the buttress to the right of the TV Route for three pitches then up the slab on the TV Route for two pitches. Finally break left up a steep crack system; the headwall has some amazing rock. Climb the slab and right facing shallow corner to belay at bottom of left facing prominent corner.
21840mYes
 Climb left facing corner on good gear. Continue up right to belay stance at base of slabs.
31425mYes
 Move right and up to belay just around prominent right-hand skyline.
41730mYes
 Right and up following laid back crack/corner system. Belay where corner steepens and narrows above.
51830mYes
  Move left and up into wide corner/weakness. Continue up and left over slight bulge to belay at small stance on skyline arête.
61650mYes
 Move right the follow left trending shallow corner.
71640mYes
 Up 10m then trend left towards easier ground follow a fantastic series of flakes and cracks.
80mYes
 Scramble up easier ground.
Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, 1985.
8 Ram Paddock Road 19 , 23 , 24 , 24 100m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Four pitches: 19, 23, 24, 24. Originally a mixed aid line, A4. . Move directly up on good gear to a solid belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11920mYes
 Four pitches: 19, 23, 24, 24. Originally a mixed aid line, A4. . Move directly up on good gear to a solid belay.
22325mYes
 Up the wall passing some bolts to a small roof. Belay 5m above.
32415mYes
  Head up and left from anchor clipping a couple of old bent pitons then straight up for several metres on minimal gear to a committing 4m traverse right. Head straight up to easier climbing, bomber rock and good times. Clip a couple more old pitons before belaying at a suspect flake with sardine can wedged in behind. An eerie pitch.
42440mYes
 Head straight up awkward corner continuing up an awesome layback section as it heads off right.
Murray Judge, Hugh Logan, Feb 1984.
9 Smash Palace 23
0
 wire representing trad
An overhanging layback and undercling crack up a right facing corner and arch.
Dave Vass, Murray Judge, Feb 1990.
10 Ball and Chain A4
1.02
Climb/aid the overhanging crack which breaks through the large roofs and goes up to join the TV Route at half height. A quality aid line.
John Dale, Murray Judge, 1985.
11 Rock Candy
0
 wire representing trad
A steep single pitch cutting through the crack on the Ball and Chain route
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies

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