New Zealand’s best rockclimbing peak – Murray Judge, NZAJ, 1984. A thin blade of rock sitting astride the narrow ridge that separates Moraine Creek and Marian Creek.
From Phil’s Bivvy
Drop down and across the basin towards the main waterfall below the North Buttress of Sabre, which often has a large avalanche cone at its base. Cross the stream 100m down from the foot of the waterfall to slabs on the north side, climbing these to a narrow ledge leading left, up and across a grassy gut to a short rock slab. At the top go left to a short waterfall and then diagonally right up a rock ramp to a large terrace. Take the second gully at the right-hand end to the foot of the North Buttress, then continue to Sabre Adelaide Col, or head right over rock and snow to the Marian Sabre Col.
Descent off Sabre Peak
The East Ridge is the usual summer descent. From the summit drop down the north-east face then follow ledges down and right for 150m, slowly traversing back to the East Ridge above the large gendarme. It is possible to abseil this section, two 60m raps. A small flat ledge located at the base of the gendarme runs across the wall and two separate rap lines with fixed slings descend from the ledge to the col. One of these follows a gully and is found by traversing the ledge west for 50m.
Descent off Sabre Peak in winter
There are three options. All are quite involved.
- Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col and back into the Marian valley; conditions on the glacier vary depending on the season.
- Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col then descend the northern slopes to Phil’s Bivvy in Moraine Creek.
- Down the West Ridge, then traverse Marian and Barrier heading for Gertrude Saddle; the quickest way to Homer Hut.
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