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From the Sabre Adelaide Col traverse 5m left then climb a steep pitch onto the ridge. Move right up a slab to a short chimney and groove above. From this point the ridge may be climbed directly, or follow easier broken ledges slanting right towards the top of the North Buttress and up the broken ridge to the top.
Bill Gordon, Bryce Wood, Dal Ryan, Dec, 1954.
The ridge rises in two steps from the Marian Sabre Col; these are usually climbed on the right (south) side. Near the summit the ridge is cut by a deep notch but this can be by-passed via ledges on the north side.
Phil Houghton, Mike Gill, Feb 1959.
|West Ridge (Winter Ascent)||
The west ridge was accessed via the north-west face, five pitches to the ridge then exposed travel to the summit. The summit was reached in a long day from Homer Hut, with a bivvy at the Sabre Marian col on descent.
Merv English (solo), July 1977.
Descent Routes off Sabre Peak
There are three options for descending off the summit of Sabre. All are quite involved.
1) Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col and back into the Marian valley; conditions on the glacier vary depending on the season.
2) Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col then descend the northern slopes to Phil’s Bivvy in Moraine Creek.
3) Climb down the West Ridge, then traverse Marian and Barrier heading for Gertrude Saddle; the quickest way home.
Access to Sabre Peak from Phil’s Bivvy
From Phil's Bivvy drop down and across the basin towards the main waterfall below the North Buttress of Sabre, which usually has a large avalanche cone at its base. Cross the stream 100m down from the foot of the waterfall to slabs on the north side, climbing these to a narrow ledge leading left, up and across a grassy gut to a short rock slab. At the top go left to a short waterfall and then diagonally right up a rock ramp to a large terrace. Take the second gully at the right-hand end to the foot of the North Buttress, then continue to Sabre Adelaide Col, or head right over rock and snow to the Marian Sabre Col.
Descent route off Sabre Peak
The standard descent route is down the East Ridge. From the summit of Sabre drop down the north-east face then follow ledges down and right for 150m, slowly traversing to the East Ridge above the obvious gendarme. It is possible to abseil this section, two 60m raps. There is a small flat ledge located at the base of the gendarme which runs across the wall, there are a two separate rap lines with fix slings that descend from this ledge to the col.
Sabre Adelaide Col
This col offers the only good route from the Upper Marian to Lake Adelaide. Climb the slabs and snow above Lyttle Falls to the small glacier. The last 100m to the col can be difficult if the snow gully is cut off. Descend the northern slopes to Phil’s Bivvy in Moraine Creek.