|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
|This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then: Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge.|
|Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay.|
|Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right. Continue up the buttress for 200-300m on well featured rock, crux 13-14.|
16 , 17 , 16
Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982.