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This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then:
Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay.
Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right.
North Buttress Standard Route
16 , 17 , 16
Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982.