North Buttress Standard Route

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mYes
 

This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then:
Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge.

21740mYes
 

Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay.

31640mYes
 

Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right.
Continue up the buttress for 200-300m on well featured rock, crux 13-14.

Grade: 
16 , 17 , 16
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
125m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982.
UUID: 
8599f0c2-b3a5-4785-9110-eba87b3b8fe3