Type:
Alpine
Pitch(es):
| # | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 16 | 45m | Yes | ||||||||
| This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then: Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge. | |||||||||||
| 2 | 17 | 40m | Yes | ||||||||
| Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay. | |||||||||||
| 3 | 16 | 40m | Yes | ||||||||
| Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right. Continue up the buttress for 200-300m on well featured rock, crux 13-14. | |||||||||||
Grade:
16 , 17 , 16
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
125m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
1
Ascent:
Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982.
UUID:
8599f0c2-b3a5-4785-9110-eba87b3b8fe3