North Buttress

(6 routes)

One of the best alpine rock routes in the country. 500 metres of seriously exposed climbing. This one was a Darrans classic even before it was successfully climbed. Make sure you are on the route early as any route finding errors could result in a cold night out.
There are three variations to the start of the original North Buttress. All take lines on the Little North East Face, joining up with the North Buttress at various points.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Lower North East Face start 17 , 16 , 14 140m
0
wire representing trad
From the right-hand end of the flat ledges under the North East Face. Climb a corner/face to a good ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11750mYes
 From the right-hand end of the flat ledges under the North East Face. Climb a corner/face to a good ledge.
21650mYes
 Move right on easy ground under the overhanging wall for 10m, then up an initially steep right-facing corner.
31440mYes
 Head up right to join the standard route.
Duncan Chessell, Kylie Wakelin, March 1997.
North Buttress Direct Start 19
3
1
Two steep pitches through a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round toward the north east face. Don’t be fool by the steepness, the crack is full of jugs and eats up gear.
Rick McGregor, Cathy Mackay, 1975.
North Buttress Standard Route 16 , 17 , 16 125m
3
wire representing trad
This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then: Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mYes
 This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then: Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge.
21740mYes
 Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay.
31640mYes
 Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right. Continue up the buttress for 200-300m on well featured rock, crux 13-14.
Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982.
North Buttress 17
2.01
wire representing trad
The route starts at the toe of the Buttress, climbing the large grassy Yak Pastures to the overlaps in the buttress. Move left on ledges onto the edge of the north-east face then up on steep ground to regain the buttress. The original ascent took 2 days and involved sections of aid through the steep cracks in the centre of the buttress.
Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, Dec 1968.
North Buttress North West Face Variation
0
wire representing trad
Climb the right side of the buttress.
Ted Coates, John Howard, 1973.
North Buttress (Winter Ascent) V WI5
0
Follow the line of the summer route. The climbing is generally steep rock-climbing in nature with ice chocking the cracks and shady corners.
Warwick Anderson, Ken Hyslop, Aug 1977.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies