Donne Face

(3 routes)

The head of the Donne Valley is a massive wall stretching between the peaks of Karetai and Revelation. All the routes are long and committing. Descents from the face are lengthy. Turners Eyrie is a good initial destination. Parties have opted to traverse Underwood, descending the South Ridge, but this is difficult and time consuming. Dropping down the Taoka Ice-fall may be possible when in condition, otherwise exit using one of the routes out of the Central Darrans. Traversing Revelation into the Korako Glacier and thence to Moraine Creek is another possibility.

Face (Alpine)

There is a reasonable 3–4 person bivvy rock in scrubby bush at the head of the Donne River, at about CB09 061 401.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 The Big Easy IV 22 600m
wire representing trad
Start from between the two snow patches at the bottom of the face. A near-continuous crack line (fingers to off-width) on the left side of the face, where the best rock is. Take a rising traverse left for a couple of pitches, then straight up. The crux is a short, steep wall on pitch 5. Fourteen pitches in all. Exit was via the South Ridge of Karetai to Turners Eyrie.
Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2012
2 Original Route
From the flats at the head of the valley take some ledges left to the middle section of the face where a rope may be required for short steps, then continue up through the obvious corner, finishing left of the summit. The upper third breaks into easy ledges. The party accessed the route from Moraine Creek via Darran Pass, spent a day or so on the wall, and returned to Moraine Creek via the Korako ledges.
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, January 1974
3 Whiston Anderson Roxburgh
Climb steep grassy gullies in the lower third of the face, traversing left to ledges. Tend right then straight up the middle of the face directly in line with the summit. Pitch after pitch of great climbing on clean rock. On the last third of the face tend right on increasingly easier ground, finishing just right of the summit.
Neal Whiston, Warwick Anderson, Graeme Roxburgh, April 1976
Craig Jefferies