Pitches 1-7: Same as "A New Dawn"
P8: Straight off ledge, move into steep chimney/offwidth crack Grade 18 30m
P9: Off horn belay, make committing moves around bulge to the right, following a hand traverse right then back left aiming for a long right facing corner. Grade 20 55m
P10: Follow finger crack through a bulge then up right facing corner system. Grade 21 60m (an excellent pitch!)
P11: Finish up corner to a ledge. Grade 18 30m
FA party bivvyd on this ledge
Traverse ledge left for 100m, easy 4th class scrambling until at the base of obvious right facing corner
P12: Up right facing corner, run out slab to a blocky steep chimney. Grade 20 55m
P13-14: Easy scrambling, aiming for big obvious curving left facing corner system. Grade 15 120m
P14: Climb left facing corner system. Careful of many loose blocks. Grade 18 40m
P15: Finish up corner system, then up slab aiming towards the ridge. Grade 19 60m
FA party traversed the ridgeline down to the Karako Glacier, then descended via Karako ledges and Moraine Creek
- P1
- 21
- 800m
- Trad