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A New Dawn

Grade
23
Length
700m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Tanja de Wilde, Peter Le, January 2025
Located on
Topo ref
stars

Starts on the next weakness to the right of The Big Easy in a right facing corner.
Pitches 1-6: Link together a series of fun right facing corners on the lower third of the wall with average grade 18-19.
Pitches 7: Traverse right along the ledge (about 60m) until standing below the shield of good rock with cracks in the middle of it.
Pitch 8: Easy climbing up loose-ish gully to reach the cracks.
Pitches 9-11: Three pitches of great crack climbing going straight up the shield of good rock (grade 18, 22 and 23). Sections of wide crack, stemming, hand jams, corners, 0.75s bulge, and finishes with sustained finger crack.
Pitches 12-13: Easy ledges then cave chimney behind block and step right onto ledge. There is a sheltered sloping bivvy ledge here.
Pitches 14-16: Trend rightwards and up to enter the gully above the choss. Climb up the gully for two long pitches with an offwidth crux (grade 18). Scramble up and right to reach the ridge. Last 15m step to the ridge is steeper and required a short 15m pitch up a wide crack.

Double rack, single #3 and #4 cam were useful on many pitches.

FA party descended via the Te Puoho and Rainbow Lake.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 700m
  • Trad

Comments
UUID
 
94e3e757-c6f0-4898-868f-831f2174cfd9