Patuki Col

(0 routes)

Patuki Col connects Lake Turner with the Donne Valley and Taoka Icefall. Crossing the col itself is not difficult on either side, but the descent into the Donne requires several abseils to avoid the unstable edge of the icefall.


Due to the Taoka Icefall, crossing from the Donne valley is not recommended.
From Lake Turner, climb tussock slopes above the outlet and below the North Ridge of Te Wera to gain the upper bench that can be followed past Lindsays Ledges and up to the col. It is a short drop to the Taoka névé, giving access to Mt Underwood and the South Face of Mt Patuki.
Descent to the Donne is much more difficult: cross to the rock rib on the true left edge of the névé and scramble down until an abseil is needed to gain a wide sloping ledge. From the far (south) end of this ledge, it's two steep rappels to the lower snowfield. Descend rock slabs on the true left to reach the upper Donne valley.
First reached from the Donne valley by Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, 25 December 1955.

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