Mt Tutoko

(13 routes)

-44.594872730000, 168.012111300000
D40 142 117
CA09 041 499
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West Face to North West Ridge
Ascend from the head of the Tutoko Valley to the North West Ridge. Follow grassy gullies between the cirque wall at the head of the valley and the West Face to slabs then turn right at the top of the slabs onto the snowfield below the North West Ridge. Continue alone the ridge to the summit. The party climbed the route in 18 hours return to the road. An extremely fast time considering over 2000m of vertical high gain.
Paul Coradine, Harold Jacobs, Feb 1971
West Face VI 5 7
2 3
climb the central weakness on the face (marked in above photo). He comments that he encountered ‘endless good ice climbing’ en-route and that the climb ‘was classic kiwi mountaineering style, gully and couloir ice with snow sections now and then. Two sections of technical grade 5 ice and mixed, but says that as he considered himself off-route for both of these sections, he hasn’t considered them in his given grade of VI, 4+. He does add that if the Darrans grading system was open-ended, the route would be grade VII.
Guy McKinnon 11 July 2013
Bouchier Hill Moore
From opposite the Pawnbroker Bivvy ascend a huge mound to the bottom of the face. Complex route finding for the initial 1000metres, the route moves through a series of water worn slabs connecting a series of ribs and buttresses. A more prominent buttress with a major gulley to its left and icefield on our right is gained at around 1100m. This is followed to the final headwall. The party retreated back down the face in heavy rain before gaining the summit.
Dave Bouchier, Butch Hill, Pete Moore, 1974.
South West Ridge
Follow the dry creek bed which enters Limerick Creek 15m above Dave’s Cave then continue through bush, cutting back towards the Tutoko River 90m above the cliffs. There is a large un-named rock bivvy located in the bluffs. Climb over the small Tauihu Peak on the ridge, then continue up the steep snow slope beside the broken ridge to the prominent buttress split by a deep chimney. The buttress can be turned easily on the left, leading to the slabs below and the summit snowfields. The original party climbed the deep chimney (highly recommended) to gain the ridge above. A fantastic alpine journey.
Conway Powell, Richard Price, Mar 1973.
10 Age Glacier Face (South Face)
Take the right side of the Age Glacier avoiding the rock steps of the South East Ridge; a good early season route. The Age Glacier route was used in the first traverse of Mt Tutoko. The party descended the North West Ridge to the Donne Glacier and returned over Turners Pass. Turners Pass is now cut off due to glacial recession on the Donne Glacier side. Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon, Ralph Millar, Jan 1955.
Colin Lea, Lindsay Stewart, Rod Ryan, Jan 1952.
11 South East Ridge 3+ 14
Take a rising traverse up a series of rock ledges ‘til a long rock gully followed by a snow gully leads to the buttress on Madeline. Skirt around the Age Glacier keeping close to the rock ‘til Turner’s Pass is reached. The ridge from Turner’s Pass gives easy travel ‘til a 30m drop to the snow at the base of the South East Ridge. The first rock buttress, crux 13, leads to a snow slope and the second rock step. Move out left onto a large slab of rock and up to a snow ridge. The third step can be climbed directly, crux 14, or by skirting out to the left. Follow a long and often crevassed snow-slope to the summit. This is a long route and may require a bivvy on the descent.
Dick Irvin, Gerry Hall-Jones, Peter Robinson, Lloyd Warburton, 1956.
North East Ridge
Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, Feb 1959.
North West Ridge
Climb the left-hand rock ridge to the headwall where a chimney on the west side gives a route to the summit.
Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, Mar 1924.
South East Ridge and snowface IV WI2
The winter ascentioniststs avoided the the buttresses on the ridge by sidling onto the south face, continue up the snowface to the summit.
Jim Strang, Bruce Clark, Paul Corwin, Aug 1976.
Craig Jefferies


Type Title Link to edit content
Face (Alpine) Donne (East) Face (2 routes)
Face (Alpine) North face (2 routes)