North Face

(5 routes)

North Face

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

The north face is best accessed from Gertrude Saddle. Ascend tussock and snow slopes toward Traverse Pass, traversing into the face where possible.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
10 Nowhere Man 18
1.02
wire representing trad
Six pitches. Take the obvious crack line directly right of the red wall into a niche at the top. Scramble up for one pitch and finish up Smithereens.
Charlie Hobbs, Calum Hudson, Mar 1985.
11 Clearing of Misty Minds 19 , 24 , 20
0
wire representing trad
Climb the off-width: needs big gear.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mYes
 Climb the off-width: needs big gear.
2240mYes
 Take the overhanging flake corner just left of the snow patch; at the top of the flake move left following a break. Continue along the break or mantle to next break, move left and up the slab above to below the overhang.
3200mYes
 Move left below the overhang and up the middle of the slab.
Tim Robertson, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000.
12 Smithereens 17
1.02
wire representing trad
The north-east pillar direct to the summit. Start up a crack-line to the right of the red wall passing the large snowfield on its left side, then follow cracks and chimneys to the summit.
Leigh Duncan, Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985.
13 Neal's Climb 18
1.02
wire representing trad
500m to the right of the start of Smithereens, follow a crack and groove up the centre of the sweep of grey slabs to the ridge.
Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985.
14 Bosshard Ritchie 17
0
wire representing trad
Three pitches on the right-hand end of beautiful brown slabs. Climbs right facing flake system then slabs and crack to the major ledge above slab.
Sam Bosshard, Al Ritchie, 1996.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies